Lights

Lights at New Gate

 The Christmas lights are on at New Gate and the Christian Quarter. It's not as subdued as last year, but still it was restraint. The economic strain on the people is palpable and celebrations are pulled back on a lesser scale. Nevertheless celebrations do bring a little cheer and distraction away from worries and troubles. 

Despite its simplicity, the light decorations are beautiful. Fringes of white and yellow lights hang over walls and huge drops of sparkling lights are interspersed throughout the streets. It's elegant and dignified, much better than previous when it was overdone with kitsch decorations and colours. I liked this year's decorations much better.

However there's been an influx of jews walking pass our Quarter - to avoid muslim areas - and I'm not sure how they'll take this. Every year they come to destroy our decorations, especially tearing down Christmas trees which they say are idols. Let's see if they'll start to cause trouble this year. Unbearably intolerant.

New Gate

One of our sisters who had gone back to India for holidays is now stuck at Delhi airport, because of the changes in Israeli policy. Her main problem is she doesn't have a Green Pass even though she had her 3rd shot. The queues were so long at the Municipality Square for booster shots that the medical team did not take down all the personal details, so now it's impossible to trace her vaccination record and get a Green Pass in order to come back. I hope after 2 weeks it'll all pass and we get ack to normal routine again. It's terribly stressful. I'm helping her contact and find her Green Pass at the Ministry of Health. It's a series of busy calls here and to india. I hope it gets resolved as soon as possible so she can come back.

Healthwise I'm feeling very sick. Yesterday was pretty bad. Today I'm a little better but much weaker. Am waiting for the hospital to give me a time for my appointment.

Closed borders again

Friday night, Damascus Gate

 The weekend was chaos for some people as the govt. suddenly closed the borders to all incoming non-israelis due to the outbreak of the Omicron variant. Suddenly 2 of our profs had to cancel their planned trip to Rome as they will not be able to reenter the country. Tourist groups cancelled, hotel bookings cancelled. The virus mutant has struck fear throughout the world. Strict enforcement of covid laws are in place. I wanted to go out for a walk yesterday but decided to stay home instead. Not worth the risk.

Sunset at Jaffa street

And this sudden closure came in the midst of our 1st Advent Sunday and the jewish feast of Hanukkah, coinciding on the same day. The annual solemn entry into Bethlehem went ahead; our Custos accompanied by Israeli soldiers up to the border, and then by palestinian soldiers on the Bethlehem side. Scout bands marched in parade and hundreds cam out to Manger Square to welcome the Custos, as Vespers and a candlelight procession took place. I'm not sure of jews had gathered in public places to celebrate the lighting of the 1st candle of Hanukkah. It's usually a crowded affair but with the restrictions in place, it could be more subdued this year.

Last night till now my lungs have been filled with fluid. It's like drowning. I can't cough it out. It's cutting the oxygen supply for me and I'm getting dizzy and blackouts. I must find a way to get rid of this fluid otherwise I can't continue with daily life anymore. As it is, I've not had a night's peaceful sleep in decades due to these ailments. 

Stromata

Damascus Gate
Veggie seller

 Catching up with updating the blog. Though the temp is higher than last weekend and it's quite sunny, the indoor temp is still very chilly. Forecast is rain next Wednesday. I hope this time it'll be very heavy in Jerusalem. We don't get enough of rain here while the rest of the country is inundated. We need that wintry feel as we approach Christmas.

The new mutant strain of Covid has hit Israel with one case. The govt has warned the country is on the brink of another emergency as 2 other suspected cases have eluded authorities and are on the run. I'm staying indoors as much as possible and not mixing with crowds. And its always mask-wearing whenever I have to go to work, or buy necessities like medicine and bread. It's awful this time round because the new strain is resistant to all the vaccines.

The Pope will be visiting Cyprus next week. No one knows why as the Catholic population there is minuscule and there's no particular need such as persecution to warrant such a visit during this pandemic. It'll cost alot of money, that's for sure ... security-wise. And with the new strain of Covid going around, I don't think it's wise.

Busy market today

Today's newspapers report that Titus Brandsma, a dutch Carmelite who spoke against the Nazis and was killed in Dachau, will soon be canonised. Likewise Charles de Foucauld, who lived some years here in the Holy Land, will also be canonised. That's some good news. Added to that, newspapers today say the govt. is issuing 500 entry permits to Gaza Christians for Christmas visits to Bethlehem. That's really a major shift forward, and we hope it will actually be carried through.

The 1st Sunday of Advent is upon us, and I look forward to making the little decorations on my room altar for it. I don't want to mix in the crowd for fear of catching the virus, so I'll do a minimum of buying. It'll be a good break from the routine of work.

Stromata

Fresh veg for sale

 The skies remain overcast and it's chilly indoors. We're hoping more rain would fall. It would be more wintry if it does. Still the bedouin women come to sell their vegetables at Damascus Gate. Prices have gone up all round as the shekel becomes stronger over the dollar. In a 20 year low, US$1 is now 3 shekels when usually it's 3.5. It's not worth changing USD to shekels now. And the cost of living keeps going up. The pandemic lockdowns have ruined many people's livelihood and now as the cost of living shoots up, it will drive many to desperation. 

Christ the King
tabernacle in our
chapel

The end of the liturgical year was marked by the feast of Christ the King last Sunday. That's a special feast for us because our chapel commemorates the Crowning of Thorns and the mockery of the soldiers when Christ was made to dress as a king. Historically it took place someone around our monastery compound. So it's very significant for us. While the rest of the world celebrates feastdays in the abstract, here we do it on the actual spots.

Meantime the govt is ramping up aggression against Iran's nuclear programme. Not sure if it'll lead to a major war. The arab states around Israel are already in good terms with Israel, so a war with Iran would be regional. I doubt Iran will want to risk several states attacking it. But it might get its proxies in Lebanon to create trouble. I'm no political analyst but I've lived through several wars ... and I can tell you no one wins. Innocent people will suffer. May Christ the King reign and bring peace to our region.

Cold and dark day

Storm clouds at noon today

 Yesterday morning a terrorist fired a submachine gun just 200m from my house, wounding 4 people. He was killed by the police. It's getting very violent. Later in the afternoon, a suspected terrorist stabbed a jew in Jaffa, Police in return had raided an arab refugee camp, arresting terrorists who were planning large-scale attacks. It's no longer safe to walk in the streets as innocent bystanders are wounded. And the streets here are very narrow. There is no chance of escape. I try to change my routes everyday, taking the least crowded ones so as to avoid any attacks. It's very unsettling and you have to keep watching your back.

Tourists have been flooding the Old City though, despite the cold, wet weather we're having. Yesterday drizzled alot but today it stopped. Still the sky is very overcast and a cold wind is blowing. I'm never quite prepared as I walk home after 6pm which is very dark, and I'm shivering most of the way.

It'll be a busy week as our General Visitator arrived from Rome to prepare us for the Chapter to elect the new Custos. I've finished all my reports to be presented to him, and I've already cast my votes. I think I was the first one to do so. There's so much going on, I can't catch up. So I'm living day by day. I must go to get my colonoscopy soon. The situation isn't getter better. So if I'm offline and no updating, it's because I'm in hospital.

Full moon

Full moon over the wall

 The rains came yesterday. It was quite a heavy shower after lunch and then it was drizzle right through the evening. Then in the night it rained again and in the morning was again drizzle with dark clouds. I think it'll rain again in the afternoon. It's a nice break from the dry summer we've had. 

And the full moon is out. On my way home yesterday I couldn't resist taking photos of it over the City Walls in various parts eastwards. It was spectacular. 

The Empty Tomb
this morning

I've decided to stay home today as I don't want to slip on the slippery stones that pave the Old City. I only went out early at 5am to celebrate Mass at the Holy Sepulchre for your intentions. It was cold but the air was crisp and clean after the night rain. With my asthma, I had to take half an hour to get to the basilica, which usually would take 10 mins. Age has caught up. 

Well there were hardly any people in the basilica. Only 5 praying at the Empty Tomb. I had Mass inside the Tomb and prayed for all your intentions. Then I took a slow walk home, careful not to slip down the many steps leading home. I intend to clean my room today and finish my lesson notes for Monday. That leaves Sunday free for my own ... which I hope I can go out to buy some ponschki (or the jelly doughnuts) that jews eat for Hanukkah. But if it rains, then I'll decide to stay home and read. Buddy and JJ will be happy to spend time with me.

Attack and roadblocks

Roadblock on Wednesday night

Wednesday saw a stabbing attack 50 meters from my house. The streets and City Gates were all closed. That was when I decided to check the news and saw the alert. I had to go home from work and walked all the way down to Damascus Gate, noticing the main road blocked off to traffic by the police. Then crowds were walking upwards to New Gate, telling me to turn back as Damascus Gate was closed. New Gate was the only City Gate opened because there was a small music fest which could not be postponed. SO I walked back uphill to New Gate where and roadblocks I started from, got an attack of asthma that made me very sick. The gatekeeper gave me a glass of water and I sat there for a quarter of an hour before walking through the dark streets of the Old City to get home. When I reached the inner fork road of Damascus gate, it was blocked by police who won't let anyone enter. So I had to wait for half an hour and the police told me to take the side alley as the main street will not be opened any time soon. So I had to walk up hundreds of steps uphill to get back home ... and I was very sick after that. Yesterday I spend the whole day resting in bed.

Before the rains begin ...

And my internet connection was broken for over 36 hours. It was a mystery why. The technician came and spent 2 hours trying to find out the problem and suddenly the main router restarted itself and it worked again. That was a relief. I cancelled several classes due to this break in the connection.

 Everyone is excited that the rains are coming. Yesterday the coastal cities had their first wet winter this year. It still has to come inland to the central mountains hopefully by today. There was a slight drizzle and you can smell the dampness in the air. People are buying foodstuff at the weekend markets now to avoid being caught in the rain later. I certainly hope it comes. It'll clean the air off the dust and sand from last week's sandstorm.

The Boss is back

The Boss is back

 It's midweek and the sky is very grey and cloudy. Forecast for rains from Friday through the weekend might just come true. We need the rain.I'm hoping for a storm. It'll be terribly inconvenient because I plan to go to Bethlehem to bring lots of clothes and medicines to the MC sisters, and the rain will not help one bit. But we've had a very dry year so I'll not complain if there's a tempest on Friday.

The weather yesterday must have been good because everyone with dogs in the Old City were bringing them out for a walk. I've never seen so many dog walkers in Jerusalem before. Huskies, Pit Bulls, Alsatians, Belgian Shepherds .... and our Boss the English Bulldog whom I've not seen for a year now during the pandemic lockdowns. He's a great specimen, show dog quality. Wish I had one too. Miss Rex and Regis very much!

I've been very busy with work so I had no time to see the news. Not sure what's happening outside the walls. Here it's always essential to update on the news because roads may be closed; curfews may be enforced, riots may take place along the streets that I take to go home. So I'm taking my chances today ... going home without checking the news. I guess I'm more interested in the weather. I guess the rains will also put out any residual fire in the forests that devastated the land last week and caused the sandstorm to worsen. So let it rain!!

Storm over

Open market during
the sandstorm

 The sandstorm has finally died out, and same with the wild fires raging form the north to central Israel. Buffeted by strong winds and the sandstorm from the south, the past2 days was horrible. Just coming out of my room would provoke an asthma attack.  I stayed in my room and tried to seal every window and door opening. Still I coughed all night and now my chest and throat hurts. Nevertheless it's over and hopefully the rains will come this weekend, as forecast. It's not very promising as they say November will be unusually hot and dry, with strong winds.

There's been another shooting in a southern Jerusalem suburb of German Colony, or Emek Refaim as we call it today. It's arab family feuds and gang violence, and its rampant throughout the country. Over 100 people have been killed in daytime roadside killings. It's terrifying because you could be a casualty walking innocently along the road. Well I stay indoors mostly now because I'm not vaccinated, and I can no longer walk distances without having breathing difficulties ... so the risk of getting shot is less. Unless it takes place inside the Old City streets where I have to go to and from work.

Workload continues and there's no abating. I'm just trying my best to clear the work of today and not think ahead. Soon I'll have to do my colonoscopy which I dread. Hope I'll be able to get it done serenely, after the CT Scan showed something wrong in the colon.

Sandstorm

Sandstorm

 What a sandstorm we're having right now. The Mt. of Olives is hardly visible. Every corner is filled with very fine sand from the southern desert. It gets into your eyes and mouth and nose. I was working in the library and noticed the sky was getting darker by the hour ... and cold too. Then I started coughing. Didn't know why till the librarian came to tell me there's a sandstorm blowing. I went home slowly walking .... with a mask. Many others were also wearing masks. The sun was blocked out by the yellow clouds and visibility was up to 3km. Just read from the news that sand from as far as Saudi Arabia are blowing into the country due to very strong winds.

Still it was a Saturday and I had finished my work for the week. Time to celebrate. I called Fr. Romeo to come out and join me in a little walk at the Damascus Gate open market. He came wearing a mask too ... and coughing from the sand in the air. We chatted about our day while sitting in Palm Plaza. 

Sandstorm at Palm Plaza

Then we walked along the open market. Lots of minivan taxis yelling for passengers to go to Tel Aviv. Being Saturday migrant worker get a day off and they come to the churches in Jerusalem. Indians, filipinos and ethiopians all flock here every Saturday to pray and make a pilgrimage. 

We went to the bakery to buy bread for tomorrow's breakfast - Its Sunday and we try to enjoy our breakfast with something a little more substantial. Then we wen to buy a few chicken nuggets at Miami Chicken ... something to celebrate the weekend for dinner tonight. Then we walked down East Jerusalem through Herod's Gate and got home. A nice walk in the sandstorm. Something different to break the routine of a busy week. Well I'll be staying indoors as the air is really bad for asthmatics.

Music fest

Little - Big New Gate

 The President gathered heads of different religions today and they made a common call for everyone to be vaccinated. It's a nice gesture but they should have done that last year. Anyway infection rates have dropped to below 500 a day, which is remarkable! While experts are fretting that a 4th wave might come de to the opening up of the country to foreign tourists, the rest of the country is feeling confident. Right now only indoor mask-wearing is imposed. Crowd limitation has been removed for indoors and outdoor gatherings.

And that is good news because for the past few evenings there was a music fest in the Old City. I noticed something was going on when there were bands and small arab orchestras playing in the street corners and crossroads. At New Gate they made a replica of New Gate, mini in size, where a band performed. I would have loved to walk around listening to the music ... but I'm not vaccinated so I avoid crowds. And it gets chilly by 7pm when I go home and the bands start performing .... so I don't stay back. Missed it this year, hope I won't miss it next year!

I was at the MC convent in Bethlehem this morning to bring all the bags of clothes and toys, and celebrated Mass for the sisters there as well. They work very hard and I try my best to give them some rest by visiting them. Well they would be very pleased if you can share some generosity this Christmas. A little donation goes a long way here in Palestine where the sisters serve the poorest of the poor. 

Uneventful day

Donation of toys &
clothes

 A grey gloomy day today. A cold wind is blowing and it feels like it might rain. I had only one class today as the evening conference and confession was cancelled. There was still other work to do in the libraries though. It was nonetheless a less stressful day than the past few days. Thankful for that.

The parish in Beer Sheva sent lots of clothes and toys for the poor. I think tomorrow I'll have to bring them to Bethlehem, because Nablus is too far away for a morning trip and back. I hope there's someone around to help me carry all that stuff. They're quite heavy.

Christmas is round the corner ... I know everyone's had had a bad time last year with the pandemic ... but I'm still appealing to all your generosity to think of the poor in the Holy Land and share with them. We try our best to help the poorest of the poor, those that slip out of the charity net. And the cases are many and desperate. Winter is upon us and the cold will affect those who cannot pay electric bills. 

I'm not sure what's happening around the country today as I haven't read the news. Well I might go home early and sleep. The sun sets by 5pm and it gets cold and dark by 7pm. Best climate for sleeping early.

New saint

Notre Dame

 Another exhausting day with 2 classes. I could hardly rest between classes as it's my feast day and I had to be present at lunch so the community could offer a cake for me to cut.  We had paella (seafood and rice) and steamed fish (Wednesday is an abstinence day for us)  and then a home baked cake.Thanks to everyone who celebrated it with me.

Tensions have been rising even higher today. Last night at 7pm I heard gunshots form the south of the City. Later I learned there were some gunmen in the neighbouring southern village of Abu Dis threatening university students for parking their cars in residential areas.

Then the army intercepted missiles fired from Gaza toward the sea. It's escalating and the newspapers are calling for caution. 

But there's good news too. One is the coming canonisation of Charles de Foucauld, the martyr of Tunisia who spent his first hermit years in our village of Taybeh and Nazareth. We're all very excited about it.

Then there's the coming lunar eclipse on the 19th. I hope to catch it.

Meantime I need to rest ... am not feeling well at all.

Time flies

Street scene

 Mondays are traumatic ... I have 9pm class on Sunday evening, then 4am on Monday and another class at 8am. When I finish with lessons by 10am, I am so exhausted that yesterday I was vomiting with chest pains. Was in bed till 4pm before I went down to the kitchen to get food. Age has caught up. I could have easily done this 20 yrs ago with no problems ... but now I no longer have the energy nor focus.

Tensions at the northern border with Syria continue bombings continue to take place. I thought I heard sirens last night, but I wasn't too sure. But locally tensions are even higher at the largest supermarket chain Supersol because they sell goods cheaper to ultra-orthodox jews while double the price for other people. It's awful because with the yearlong lockdown, people are poor. And a favourite Sushi restaurant has been forced to close because of hygiene problems. Many people have had food poisoning there but nothing was done till now ... almost after 5 years. 

The shekel is getting higher against the US dollar, so changing from US$ to shekels is a big loss. The news says it's the highest in 25 years. It used to be 3.6 shekels to a dollar, today it dropped to 3.1. Time to keep the money under the pillow. Not buying anything. 

It struck me that we're now in November and 2021 is almost over. Our Christian Quarter Christmas Shop will open in 2 days and I saw many boxes of goods at its entrance this morning. Time flies. I hope this year Bethlehem will open and tourists can come back and spend Christmas there. It's such a unique experience. And by the way, Israel is now letting tourists in even with 2 shots so long as they remain in their tour group. No free time to wander around alone. Up to groups of 40 people. That's a good start.

Visit

Crypt of the Patriarchate

 Yesterday was very busy. I had to organise a meeting of our chinese catholic migrant workers with the Patriarch who wanted to see them. It was a good meeting .... the migrant workers were excited to see the patriarch, and he was pleased to meet for the first time the chinese community. He even allowed us to use his meeting room to eat our picnic lunch. We also celebrated Mass in the cathedral and then were allowed to enter the crypt where past patriarchs and canons are buried where I was asked to bless the tombs.

Cafes are packed

Outside in the streets, crowds of tourists have returned, both local and foreign. The small cafes are packed with people, many sitting on the floor as there's not enough tables. It's a good sign. Our churches were told to reopen from 8am to 5pm. Lots of americans, mexicans and french tourists are already here visiting our churches.

Yesterday I woke up with a swollen left hand. It was hurting very much. I think it could be a nerve problem because the pain was excruciating. No idea what happened, whether I twisted it or banged it on something.

Today will be a busy day. I have to deliver a lectern to the chapel at Caritas baby Hospital in Bethlehem, then prepare my lesson notes for my MA course that I'm teaching in India, a former student is coming for lunch and then I have to pick up fresh veggies for my meals this week. 

Weekend

 

Fresh fruit stock

The weekend has started. From 4am the streets are filled with muslims coming from all around the country to pray at the Al Aqsa Mosque. The prayers over the public sound system is louder than usual. And shop keepers open their shops earlier in order to catch the morning crowd.

As usual I went to the Ivrea convent for Mass, but today I felt better with minimum coughing and choking. That's because I took 2 mint sweets to open up the airways and loosen the phlegm in my throat. At 7.15am on my way home after Mass, the streets were empty, most of the muslims had gone to eat their breakfast in restaurants outside the Old City. There was a huge amount of fresh fruit and vegetables left in front of Herod's Gate, waiting for shop owners to transport it into their shops inside the Old City. The harvest this year must have been good.

There's no sight of rain in the next few days. That's bad news. If it doesn't rain this winter, then we'll have another year of drought. And the water tax will rise. And the drought tax will be reimposed. 

Anyway I've lots of work to catch up with, and I really want to finish them by today so I can have Sunday free to rest.

Another day

Cemetery altar

 As temp. continue to drop slowly ... 12 degrees last night and maximum day temp. was 23 degrees, ashops begin to sell winter clothes and heaters. Even the food and drinks industry is switching to hot soups, sahlab and other cheap but warm foods. I can buy hot soups because the pots are put outside the shops. And a large cup is 15 shekels. Maybe I'll try it one day. 

I try to keep myself warm in the night, especially at 4am when it's coldest. That prevents an heavy attack of asthma caused by phlegm in my lungs and windpipe. That makes my 1km walk to the Ivrea Convent extremely difficult. Even dangerous as I might collapse or have a heart attack. I carry my nitro-glycerin spray always in my pocket.

Fighter jets flew overhead twice today. Seems like tensions at the northern border are not abating. Fingers crossed nothing serious will result. Winter is gloomy enough. We don't need a war with it.

All Souls

Sunrise at Rockefeller Park

 There was a national air-raid drill this morning and evening. It wasn't warned in the newspapers so it caused alot of consternation to people. School children opposite my house were screaming and crying as the dreadful sirens wailed throughout the country. I was in my room trying to rest after a tiring early morning ... and when the sirens sounded, I thought if it's war, I'm too tired to run and hide so let the missile come and I'll trust my luck. This drill is timed just when tensions with Syria and Lebanon are rising. Better safe than sorry.

This week it's my turn to go to the Convent of Ivrea to celebrate Mass. It's 1km away in the Zahara neighbourhood bordering the Wadi Jooz (Kidron Valley) village. It takes me a good half hour to walk there and my asthma nearly suffocates me each time. I am very exhausted when I reach there and throughout the Mass I'm wheezing and coughing. Only one consoling point going there ... I stop by Rockefeller Park to rest and breathe slowly ... and get to see the sunrise. But since we're in winter, it's mostly dark and cold. Bad for asthma.

At the cemetery

Yesterday I went to the cemetery to bless and pray at tombs of friends and workers. With my asthma it was a hard walk of over 1km. The cemetery is on a steep hillside so climbing up and down was very difficult for me especially since I was searching for Armenian Catholic Tombs to bless and pray. They have no priest for decades and many tombs are abandoned. Having served the Armenian community, I thought I could do this service for their dead. After all it's All Souls Day. I laid 100 shekels of flowers on over 60 tombs in all.

Tourists are back

Reporters at Damascus Gate

 Yesterday was a hectic day as I had to prepare a new course for the Bible Institute in India with Powerpoint presentation. It's a Masters level course. I didn't know how to install Powerpoint, or use it in Zoom so I had to learn from others. Very interesting. It makes the class alot more interesting and engaging.

It is still tense in and around the Old City. Israeli soldiers stop and search arab youths - male and female - and I have seen in one day alone 2 arrests at different times of the day. Both handcuffed. They probably entered Israel without permits.  I feel nervous being around there, as I myself was stopped and almost shot by a soldier several years ago in winter. It was a traumatic experience.

Today Israel opened its airport to tourists again after 20 months of lockdown. But  to tourists with 3 vaccinations that are recognised by Israel. Our streets are seeing small groups of americans all week already. It a prelude to the Christmas season when Israel expects crowds to return. The problem is now to agree with Bethlehem (Palestine) how to allow tourists into the enclave and if they are allowed to remain overnight there. All the tourists are old americans who have the time and money to spare. The younger ones need to work and pick up from the months of lockdowns that left them jobless and moneyless.

However the weather is gloomy with heavy clouds. It's cool but not very inviting ... nevertheless the tourists enjoy themselves. It's a new beginning.