Feast after fast

Eid al Fitr today

After 7pm last night when we thought the new moon was not visible because of cloudy skies, the cannon fired 7 times announcing the end of Ramadan. There were shouts of joy and women ululating, people clapping and crowds chanting. We managed to pass 30 days without incident ... other than the several days of missiles fired from Yemen. Thank God for the relative calm despite the large crowds and occasional upset over police stringent stop-and-check.  

Police presence was visibly stepped up; but so has many muslim pilgrims from Britain, Sweden, Indonesia and even Singapore. Temporary stalls and hawkers were allowed to trade without a permit. And they made good business, which is a plus since we've been facing bad financial times the past 4 years.

The weather has also been good. From the sudden chill that dropped temps down to 6 degrees with heavy drizzle for some 10 hours throughout the night and morning, it became warm again in the evening at 26 degrees. This morning as waves of people entered the Old City to pray in the mosque, the cloudy skies did not dampen the festive spirit. It was warm ... 10 degrees. Some people were already in T-shirts.

Meantime we Christians continue our fast for another 2 weeks. This year the Orthodox and Latin calendars coincide so we celebrate Easter and Holy Week together. And the Jewish Passover also coincides with our Easter Sunday. 

Good Friday collection appeal

 

Disaster

Iftar dinner

After a one month wait for my cardiology appointment, I finally went to my insurance clinic yesterday at noon. I had all my results of the test done one month ago. When I reached the clinic reception I was told the doc was not working till April 17 and I'm rescheduled for that date. I was furious and shouted I'd be dead by then. The clinic should have updated me by message.

I decided to walk to our Catholic hospital to ask when the same doc is working there as I'll see in the hospital which may be quicker. The hospital told me he no longer works there and has passed his office to his son, who is also a surgeon. So I had nothing in the end. Absolutely furious. What a disastrous day!

Then the missile sirens blared. Everyone ran for cover. After 3 minutes 2 loud explosions were heard. Black smoke billowed in the sky north of where I was sheltering. This is the 2nd day of bombing. 

Yesterday was Laylat al Khader ... the night of destiny. The streets were packed with people. That's the night the muslims believe God will determine your destiny for the next 365 days. They spend the night at the mosque praying. Well they should. Many young people instead are out in the streets celebrating. Pop up stalls are everywhere making quick money.

An hour before the fast is broken (Iftar), lots of muslims are in the streets offering water, dates and even packed food to anyone. I got offered several times. It's rather nice. Saffron rice with a chicken thigh, water, dates, yoghurt. It's very filling. People cook or buy these food packs and give them away as part of doing charity in Ramadan.

Outing

Out in nature

From 4 degrees the temp has shot up to 26 degrees. Last week's rain was the last for this year. We expect a year of drought now. If the hgh temp these days are anything indication, it'll be a very hot and dry year.

Last Sunday I organised a trip to the Biblical Nature reserve with some 40 religious from Jerusalem. The Spring flowers are all blooming and the fruit trees and waking up. A 2 hour walk in the fields, learning more about biblical flora and fauna, was a great experience for everyone. It got us out from the tense and stuffy atmosphere of the City. We could breathe and stretch our arms ... two hours to feel a little normal again.

Enjoying the sun and flowers

My feet and left hand were very swollen. I had difficulty walking with the group. I had to use a walking stick and luckily there were people around who helped me climb slopes and stairs and carry my bag.

The group had some activities in the Reserve as well ... pushing a millstone to crush olives, grinding hyssop for food. Then we had a picnic lunch. It was all very fun and everyone enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere. 

When we got back at 2pm, I was so exhausted I fell asleep on my office desk. A good tiredness. A good sweat. But I couldn't walk the rest of the day as my swollen feet hurt too much.

Mothers Day

Yoyo huddled in his
shop in his Farwa

The temperature plummeted from 26 degrees to 4 degrees in 24 hours. It rained for 2 days and everyone is back to wearing winter clothes. The subdued festive events of Ramadan in the night are almost abandoned as strong winds whipped up chaos, blowing tents and tables everywhere. Nobody wants to stay out in such a weather. Still crowds continue to visit the mosques to pray and shops are selling raincoats and umbrellas. 

Coming back from work, the usually crowded streets were quite empty. Yoyo the son of our doorman, was huddling in his small shop to stay warm. The bedouin winter coat Farwa is now very popular this year. Made from goat or sheep skin and padded with wool, it's very warm and waterproof. They use it as a blanket as well. Instead of the usual old men wearing it, this year almost all the young men are wearing one. I might get myself one if it's a little cheaper.

Unsold bouquets

Yesterday was Mothers Day in our region. With the war going on and bleak economic situation, few families wanted or could afford to celebrate it. I saw a whole row of bouquet unsold at 6pm ... a sad sight. Usually there would be mothers walking in the streets holding balloons and bouquet gifted by their families. This year the streets were barely crowded and no one carried gifts. Very sad but it reflects the reality that we're living in.

Lenten Vigil

Lenten Vigil

Time has passed so quickly it's a week since I updated the blog. I'm very busy since my librarian went on sick leave a month ago. I'm doing everything here ... from cleaning to shelving and advising students regarding their research. And with my poor health, I'm alot slower.

Last Saturday I joined the Lenten Vigil at the Holy Sepulchre. It starts at 11.45pm. We sing the Office of Matins in latin in solemn form. It begins with an invitatory psalm and then a hymn and then 3 psalms with its antiphons and prayers. Then a Scriptural passage follows, and a reading from the Fathers of the Church. A prayer is then said and then we begin singing 3 biblical canticles. The last canticle is the Benedictus and there's a procession with lighted candles around the Empty Tomb. The procession returns to our Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament where another prayer is said, intercession of the faithful are prayed and a final solemn blessing. Everything in Latin.

Procession around the
Empty Tomb

Unlike previous years before Covid, the crowd was minimal ... some 30 people joined in. I prayed for you all there ... all your intentions, the living and the dead. There is nowhere else in the world where this ritual is celebrated. My health is getting bad and the Superior of St. Saviour's Monastery asked me to join in the Vigil as I may not be able to so in the future. I thought so too ... so I went.

Coming back to my office at 1.30am when it ended was very difficult. There are many steps to climb up and I was not able to do it. 2 seminarians helped me by supporting both my arms. It took quite a while to reach the library and since it was already 2.30am when I reached my office, I decided not to go home but slept 3 hours on the chair and started work at 6am. A younger me would have taken it all in stride but a now-me take it as good penance.

Good Friday Collection Appeal

To ensure your donation goes to help the Holy Land, send your donations to the Custody of the Holy Land or the Commissariat of the Holy Land (Franciscan) in your country. 

Fasting together

Ramadan at Damascus Gate

Can't believe a week has already passed since my last update. Time flies. It's March now and we're in the 1st week of Lent. This year it's a big confluence of calendars: our Lent coincides with the Orthodox Lent and the Muslim Ramadan. So everyone fasts this month. That's solidarity.

Ramadan celebrations are on the way. The cannon is fired at 4.45am to start the fast and at 5.50pm to end the fast. Prior to the start of the fast, every family is up and eating. People go to the mosque and the streets are crowded. But once the cannon fires, everyone goes home to sleep. Then prior to the end of the fast, restaurants and hawkers selling cooked food do very big business. Once the cannon is fired, everyone buys food and goes home to eat. Other shops will close for an hour so the owners can eat.

The snake guy & son

Damascus Gate is a lot more busy after 9pm than last week. The snake guy is there like every Ramadan. He has an albino python which ever since I first saw him, has grown very big. Because it's cold, like 9 degrees, the snakes are very quiet and sleepy. Now the guy's son is out with 2 small pythons as well. People would go and take photos with it.

There're other hawkers at Damascus Gate selling kebap, fruit and toys. Kebap is cheap (15 shekels for a pita with 2 sticks of kebap) so most people can afford. Times are still hard for most of us ... so Catholic, Orthodox or Muslim, we go buy a pita kebap at sunset to break the fast that we all are keeping.

Memory lost

Great Lent fasting foods

Ash Wednesday today, started badly for me. After feeding the wild doves and sparrows, and watering the plants on the terrace, I went off to work. I decided to take the shorter route today (1km) as I'm fasting  and I didn't want to stress myself and faint walking an extra 1km. Everything seemed normal. The uphill climb was difficult as usual and I always walked slowly at that area when it gets steepest. Reached New Gate, greeted the workers standing around waiting for instructions regarding where they will work today. Entered the library and then I realised I didn't have my backpack on me. I panicked. I searched the whole library surroundings, then walked back 1km to Damascus Gate checking the pavement and park. I re-entered Damascus Gate and asked the old man who sold newspapers if he saw my backpack. No. Walked back home in total panic. I could I not realise that a 4kg backpack was missing on me? This is the 2nd it has happened. I reached my room and found it on the floor inside there. It's a very scary experience. I really think dementia or Alzheimer's is starting to work in my brains. I'm scared to walk back to work ... also because I was already exhausted. Our janitor decided to drive me there instead.

Yesterday my Armenian Catholic parishioners came to visit me as Lent will start today. The eastern rite Churches especially here in the Holy Land, eat nuts and dates and dried fruit during Lent. No cooked food. That's what the ancient Desert Fathers also ate during Lent 1,500 years ago. My parishioners gave me fried fruit and bags of nuts, wishing me a fruitful Lent. It was very nice of them. The Church closed 4 years ago during Covid and now these parishioners join the Roman Mass or the Armenian Orthodox liturgy. But they still remember me. And luckily I remember them. My memory isn't totally lost .... yet.

Cannon fire

Quiet Damascus Gate

The cannon fired 5 times at 7pm to announce the start of Ramadan. We were told that Jerusalem would celebrate Ramadan a day late because the new moon cannot be sighted. Then unexpectedly the cannon fired. So the 30 day fast has begun, It coincides with our Lent that begins on Wednesday. So there'll be less accusations of insensitivity about eating in public while others fast. That was a flashpoint of conflict several years back in our Quarter. Back then you couldn't even carry a bottle of water in your hand and walk in the streets.

Damascus Gate which for centuries had been the heart of Ramadan festivities, was very subdued. Festive lights have not been put up since Covid struck 4 years ago. Shops and hawkers were practically non-existent last night except for 2 stalls. Very few people were in the streets compared to the massive crowds that caused pedestrian jams of up to 40 mins. There's a heavy cloud of sadness and tragedy. You don't see people laughing as much as before.

Cold and rainy morning

An unexpected shower fell on us early morning at 4am. It was cold ... 4 degrees. But nobody expected a shower. It was good for the muslims as they started the fast at 4.30am, which means they go to sleep the day off. It's good for the Jews as it's Sabbat so they can sleep in as well. Only Christians were out in the streets going to work. And also lots of police. They'll be ensuring security at today's noonday prayer when thousands of muslims go to the Al Aqsa to pray and Jews go to the Wailing Wall to pray.