Sick sick

There was a terrible sandstorm again yesterday. The sky was a dull yellow and the oppressive heat weighed like a blanket suffocating everything beneath. Sand everywhere. Awful.

Have been feeling very sick yesterday. Sprained my neck and shoulder yesterday because I was carrying a heavy backpack. Hurt so bad I still have a headache from it ... and vomited the whole night and morning. Rani the pharmacist gave me two strong medicines - a muscle relaxant and a pain-suppressant. What I really need is to sleep. And my right knee is giving me trouble - pain and weak, so I'm buckling over.

Tom & Jerry at Jacob's Pizza

On the bright side - just for laughs: Jacob's Pizzeria plays non-stop Tom and Jerry cartoons. People enjoy it very much! These guys who run the place are really something!  A group of catholic youths got together and started up this pizzeria - and a couple of these guys are deaf-mute as well. Hats off to them. They deserve good patronage not just because they create good pizzas, and have a real cool place to hangout ... but because they're willing to work hard for the money; and not just sponge off their parents or get into trouble.

And the price of tomatoes have doubled this week.  That would mean a rise of prices in pizza as well.  http://www.haaretz.com/business/price-of-tomatoes-doubles-in-two-weeks-1.427237   If this is any indication, we'd expect prices of other goods to also rise by early summer. Higher prices = more protests and boycotts. It's going to be a busy summer ......

Day of violence

Palestinian protest

After a day of pride and festivities on Independence Day, a series of violent attacks erupted throughout Israel. Jewish racist attacks on foreigners    http://www.haaretz.com/news/national/firebomb-attack-on-asylum-seekers-buildings-sparks-clashes-in-south-tel-aviv-1.427022    while arabs attack Jews in several incidents  http://www.jpost.com/NationalNews/Article.aspx?id=267732  Somehow this appears to be the beginning of a summer of serious clashes. On Friday night there was the usual Palestinian students march in East Jerusalem - "Palestine for Palestinians": waving flags, chanting, clenching fists and punching the air, while passing cars honk in support. A smattering of police and soldiers huddle in road corners watching but not intervening.

King Herod's palace in Masada

I've been quite seriously ill again ... it's even beginning to worry me. People around are urging me to go to Haifa hospital or Hadassah but I'm not convinced though. But I know something's got to be done. It gets pretty depressing as it's crippling my life, but luckily this week I've had some good friends around to buffer me up. It was good to meet my italian teacher Ulisse again and with several other friends, we visited the Dead Sea and Masada, the desert fortress/palace of Herod the Great. Haven't been there for well over 10 years now. It's still an impressive edifice. Then of course I get very cheered up when I chat with Firas my good friend in Bethlehem. He's done very well in his exams last week but unfortunately I can't go celebrate with him. He only gets permission to come to Jerusalem once or maybe twice a year and I don't go to Bethlehem so we hardly meet at all. So it's going to be one long summer .... not sure if I look forward to it.

Thanks

Sincere thanks to the following for their kind thoughts, well-wishes and gifts: Irene Teoh, Paula, Paulette, Gigi, Yvonne, Julia and Susan, the Cavero family, Vincent/Glenda and Eva, Moses and Eunice, Rose Chiu, the RISE group

Independence Day

Fireworks, concerts, roadshows, barbecues in the park, party by the beach .... the country was in a festive mood for Israel's 64th birthday. 

Evening landing: end of trip

Start of day: boarding the wasp

I would have usually stayed at home on Ind. Day but today was special. A friend visiting from overseas wanted to see the country by helicopter and invited me. So i spent most of Ind. Day up in the air. Lovely perspective of sights I usually see from ground level. Travelled from Jerusalem to Nazareth, then to Tiberias, then to Akko, over Haifa and Tel Aviv before anding again in Jerusalem.

Jerusalem Old City from the south

Haifa by air

Star of David field crop

Hilton Beach, Tel Aviv

Mt. of Olives by air

Captain David

Memorial Day

Sirens sounded at 8pm to mark the beginning of Memorial Day - the fallen soldiers of Israel. It was sombre for most people going to the cemeteries to revisit their loved ones. But there were also lots of excursions for school kids to visit the sites where battles were fought. Soldiers too were everywhere at the cemeteries to remember their comrades.

At 11am today the sirens were again sounded for  a minute's silence. The country stood still. http://www.haaretz.com/news/national/israel-marks-memorial-day-for-fallen-idf-soldiers-1.426476  Flags flew at halfmast. But by the afternoon the sombre mood was changing. Shops and houses began decking the Israeli flag as they prepared for Independence Day celebrations that begin in the evening.

Strawberries galore

In the eastern part of Jerusalem and the Territories, there was naturally no celebration. Life went on as usual even as the sirens sounded. At Damascus Gate, strawberries were being sold by the boxes - incredibly large and sweet.

Well I guess there's two sides to every coin. Every victory means defeat for another. And for the losers, every little consolation helps - even a strawberry ... if only to add a little sweetness and smile on the lips.

Ups and Downs

This evening the country will be in solemn remembrance of all who fell in war. It's Memorial Day. The day following that is Independence Day. It'll be another long weekend here for us. The weather is promising - sunny with a cool wind. That means lots of barbecuing and picnics on Independence Day; and the beaches will be packed.

On the downside the country is in crisis because Egypt decided to cut the agreement to provide natural gas to Israel. Fuel prices are going to rise and the poor as usual will suffer. Hopefully the celebrations on Independence Day will just make everyone forget those problems - even if only for a day. Of course for the Palestinians, the celebrations take on the opposite meaning - the lost of their land. Next week they'll celebrate Nakbar Day - day of catastrophe when Israel took their land. Two sides to a coin.

A '60 Minutes" report on persecution of Christians in Israel was said to be nipped from airing by Israeli pressure on America ... http://www.haaretz.com/blogs/diplomania/netanyahu-was-briefed-on-efforts-to-stop-60-minutes-report-on-israel-s-christians-1.426118 Well we all know what persecution is all about; the only question is how well it gets covered up.

But just to lighten up, here're some pics to put a smile on your face:

Watermelon frog

Watermelon fantasy

Nice and creative watermelon art.

Of sunsets and ranunculi

Sunset over the Mediterranean

Lovely weather today. I had to go to my other house which is nearer the airport to pick up some friends arriving this morning. As it was the Sabbath yesterday I couldn't book for the shuttle bus, so my best solution was to go to Tel Aviv and spend the night there so I could get to the airport the next day on time. There was a magnificent sunset. My italian teacher, Ulisse, came a day earlier than the rest of the group and we walked along the beach to watch this spectacular scene.

Elegance in a vase

It was good to be back to my other community. I haven't been with them for a very long time. The view of the sea from my window is always so beautiful. And in the house, there was a delightful vase of ranunculi on the dining table. Everything was so calm and serene compared the crazy situation in Jerusalem. And I met some of my friends who hawk their wares in the piazza in front of our house every Sabbath - Shlomi and the gang. He gave me a huge bag of honeyed mixed nuts to munch. It was good to see them again. Everyone was asking what happened to me - they haven't seen me for months.

For this once in a very long time, I could shake off the religious, political tensions of the Old City and really breathe .... the warm sea breeze, the balmy  Mediterranean sunset ... and a lovely vase of fragrant flowers. It was like another world.

Gang fight again

Heavy police presence at
Damascus Gate

Another vicious gang fight - this time down our street at the 3rd Station. Just like the last time, youths were involved; and from what I hear, it involved again rival shops. Soldiers and police poured into the streets, tear gas was fired and there was general chaos for 20 minutes before relative calm was restored. But soldiers and police continued to linger in the area as well as Damascus Gate for much longer, just in case the trouble-makers returned. It's that stretch of road that jews were using to go to the Wailing Wall - being the onset of the Sabbath - so the soldiers had to secure the road. Don't know if anyone was arrested.

In the meantime, an ultra-orthodox man (Haredi) was attacked in East Jerusalem http://www.jpost.com/NationalNews/Article.aspx?id=266817 Tensions all over. Safer to stay at home.

Edible kernels (L) and shells (R)

And at home ... it's the usual chores: feeding the birds, cleaning the courtyard, watering the plants ... Today there was a huge sack of almonds to shell. Nadia spent 2 mornings just cracking the shells of almonds with a mallet to get to the kernel which is the edible part. Hard work. But the result is tasty almonds delightfully toasted.

4 sets of canaries have nested and are brooding over batches of eggs. The other 3 sets are not co-operating. I hope we have hatchlings that survive because last year we lost many due to the heat and extreme cold.

Remembrance Day

An absolutely dreadful day yesterday - a heavy hamsin or sandstorm blew right into the country. The sky was dull and brown without the sun. The heat was oppressive - 36 degrees at its peak. And the sand - everywhere .... in your eyes, nose, ears, mouth, through every crack and cranny in the wall and pavement. I guess it set the mood for later in the evening when Israel began Remembrance Day - commemorating the Jews killed in the Holocaust.

The wind was unbelievably strong - something we might equate with Typhoon 8 signal. I was twice almost blown off my feet. And it was cold. Never saw the likes of this in recent years.

Rockefeller Museum's flag at halfmast

With the dismal weather, and the beginning of Remembrance Day, many shops and businesses closed early yesterday ... like by 2pm most people were on their way home. An unfortunate accident at the Yad Vashem museum - a pylon to hold lights and loudspeakers - collapsed under the gusty winds and killed a girl. The central ceremony for Remembrance Day took place there this morning.

Well I've been terribly terribly sick since yesterday. The diarrhea and cramps are crippling me. Last night it was so bad ... I can't even write about it. Let's just say the people who knew insisted I go to the hospital in Haifa.

Damascus Gate Square

Anyway I've been writing about my place for so many years and many of you still don't have an idea of where or what it looks like. So here's a photo of Damascus Gate square just outside Damascus Gate (where else???) where usually hawkers and bedouins do their selling and buying. It was empty today.  It's outside the City walls of course. The bridge at the bottom of the pic leads you into the walled City.

Hot and hotter

Safra Square at sunset

The weather has been very hot these few days - the heatwave is still beating down on us. Over 30 degrees every day. But the nights see a drastic drop of temp. Can get as cold as 15 degrees. However the fierce sun cerates a lovely play of shadows everywhere. Caught this photo at Safra Square with the setting sun behind the "cathedral of palms" - magnificent. Below each palm, a mass of ranunculi blossom in a rainbow of colours. They look fabulous except Russian Orthodox nuns come and pluck them for their own convents! Vandals!!!

Despite the heat, lots of asian groups are coming. It's after the Easter/Pesach season so prices are cheaper. There's this usual lull until the summer holidays begin and prices hike again.

Damascus Gate last night

Tensions have not much abated in the City. The country is pretty divided regarding the officer who struck the Danish activist with his rifle butt. Some for him, some against. But it'll soon blow over ...

Last night there was another demonstration at Damascus Gate ... it's a weekly thing. But always peaceful. So far it has been support for the Syrian people against Assad - nothing to do with local politics, so the police presence was minimal.

My elbow still hurts to high heaven - can hardly sleep. Add my nightly attacks of asthma and you have a concoction to blow your brains apart. Actually I'm terribly terribly stressed as I'm trying to finish my reading and writing .... pushing myself to the limits. The heat is on as all the other students have submitted their papers and I'm still lagging behind. Well I don't want to be sick by all this pressure, but I can't lag behind either. My stomach cramps are a daily thing and the diarrhea hasn't gone away. Luckily these few days some of my friends - unlikely ones - showed up to give support. They're terrific guys - very concerned and follow up on me everyday to make sure I'm ok. Otherwise I'd crack up under the heat of the pressure.

Heatwave

Yesterday's pro-Palestinian activists had rough treatment - at the airport and other places. Some cyclists in the Jordan valley were beaten up by soldiers. Frightening. All caught on video.


Let's hope things calm down and common sense reign. It does no one good.  And yesterday was a heatwave - 35 degrees. It felt like August. Unbelievable. All this heat is making things tense. But the nights are very cold. Drastic drop to 15 degrees. Hopefully the political heat would cool down too.

Anyway its been a crazy day ... lessons at 4am in the morning, then before classes ended, had to run to Damascus Gate to get Mother Teresa's sisters on board a chartered bus to El Jish - ancient Gishcala where tradition says St. Paul's parents lived. Did some studying, then routine work as usual. In the evening went out for a walk with my good friend from Bethlehem. He came to Jerusalem immediately after university so we could chat and walk around town and had the dinner he enjoyed most - chinese food. His permit to enter Israel runs out in a few days and he doesn't know when he can come out again.  And if he does get a permit at the end of the year or next year, I might no longer be around. So we decided to spend some quality time today ... actually we laughed alot at the crazy antics he gets into in university. I told him to write a book about his life.

And so another day passes.

Divine Mercy Sunday

Our 3 beloved penguins

So it's Divine Mercy Sunday and our sisters - the Faustina nuns - are celebrating big. They organised a solemn Mass at the co-Cathedral with the bishop presiding. I offered to buy them lunch - Sr. Veronica wanted quiche - as our cooking staff is down to one (namely Nadia) and Sr. Vincenta isn't working because all 3 nuns are busy in the co-cathedral prettying up the place for the Mass at 4pm. But just my luck - today is the 1st day after Pesach and all the bakeries and restaurants are just opening after 1 week of non-leaven food ... so none were ready for most pastries, bread and other leaven food. I got them 3 large bourekas instead. Hope it's enough for lunch.

And the "fly-in" protests began today. Hundreds of pro-Palestinian activists from around the world are flying into Ben Gurion Airport to "occupy" it. Israeli security is frantic ... blocking them off, deporting them, refusing to let them land http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/israel-blocks-entry-to-first-pro-palestinian-fly-in-activists-hundreds-more-expected-1.424321  ... they even got a 5-month pregnant tourist to sign an obligation form not to participate in any pro-Palestinian event. http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/israel-forces-tourist-to-pledge-to-avoid-pro-palestinian-activities-as-condition-for-entry-1.424385

And the weather is a sizzling 34 degrees. It's an early heatwave ... the type of temperature we usually get in August. Thank goodness it wasn't yesterday because the Holy Fire service was packed with people and the heatwave would have knocked out many people. Anyway since yesterday at 2pm when the Holy Fire descended, orthodox church bells have been pealing till right now. I'm getting a headache from the sound and heat. All I think of is "Mercy ... mercy ..."

btw a new free online Bible course on "3 Minor Prophets" is about to start. Sign up at dsbiblecentre@gmail.com

Holy Fire mayhem

Today the Orthodox christians celebrate the "longest occurring miracle in history" - the Holy Fire appearing inside the Tomb of Christ. For over one and a half millenia it has been recorded that on Holy Saturday a mysterious fire appears sometimes from the centre of the Tomb (which is actually a Crusader reconstruction since the real tomb was destroyed by Caliph Hakim in the 12th century) and lights the candle of the Greek Orthodox Patriarch. Well back in the 12th century the Latin Pope has denounced it as a fraud and forbade Catholics from participating in this event. So only Orthodox crowds are involved - and it can get nasty as rival churches try to be the first to light their candles from the Patriarch's. There's been in recent years fights between Copts and Greeks, Greek and Armenians, and the Syrians and Copts over this mayhem. With all due respect - it's quite a circus.

Locals (L) argue with soldiers at New Gate

New Gate was closed since yesterday evening. The Orthodox christian crowd can be quite uncontrollable and the police are not taking any chances. And to witness the Holy Fire is an event more sacred to the Orthodox than the resurrection of Christ - so the crush can be fatal. Last night some locals who lived in the Christian Quarter were not allowed to return home as the Gate was closed off. An altercation ensued and when a local pushed a soldier, things got very heated. Guns were raised and several soldiers rammed the local several metres to the main road ... it was very tense.

Roadblock in front of our house

Meanwhile the whole of the Muslim Quarter right up to the Christian Quarter were closed off by barricades yesterday. Only tourists and pilgrims were allowed through but the coincidence of 3 feasts of 3 religions that cross the same road made things impossible. Jews were allowed to go down Damascus Gate through the 3rd Station to the Wailing for their final day of Passover. Orthodox Christians were making the Way of the Cross (a novelty picked up from the Roman Church) and crossed the 3rd Station. Muslims were allowed to enter the Al Aqsa Mosque for Friday prayers only from Herod's Gate and Lions' Gate. And of course where all 3 religions intersect is right at our doorstep down to the 3rd Station. The crush of people, the frantic attempts by Israeli soldiers to control the crowds, the anger of muslims prohibited from passing through led to a situation quite frightening and explosive.

A den for me ...

Street buntings for Easter

Friday 13th - Orthodox Good Friday, Jewish final day of Passover, Muslim day of prayer.

Yesterday I had a surprise visit from a good friend from Bethlehem. He received permission from the Israeli side to enter Jerusalem for Easter. So he called at 4pm to say he's coming out to see me. I rushed out to Jaffa Gate to meet him but the streets in the Old City was an utter nightmare. It was jam-packed with people - Copts and Ethiopics were everywhere doing their pilgrimage, American tourists with a smattering of French and Germans clogging the streets, arab merchants pushing their carts through the tiny suq, Jews trying to get to the Wailing Wall fearful of touching strangers and goods that might have leaven or other impure things ... many times we were squeezed shoulder to shoulder, not moving one inch ... while locals curse and swear. I was afraid of a stampede ... after half an hour, I managed to reach Jaffa Gate. Normally it would take 12 minutes.

It was terribly cold by then and I had to put on a pullover before meeting Firas. It was so good to see him. He came with his mum ... she wanted to do shopping in the Old City. So we left her to do her shopping and both of us took a walk through the New City. Being the eve of the last day of Pesach, all the shops were closed so there wasn't anything much to see. Only a couple of cafes were opened ... so we went to get a drink and stay warm indoors and chat and chat and chat. We usually chat on the phone every day since he cannot come out of Bethlehem and I don't go there. But now we had a chance to meet. I really enjoyed the 2 hours that passed so quickly.

Parmesan seafood basket

That's what I need - a den

Jumping back a couple of days, chef Joseph of Rossini's told me that I needed a break - he says that to me every time we meet. Well this time he said enough is enough ... I've worked so hard to care for others, now it's time I cared for myself. And so I did ... went off to Rossini's to be by myself. It was good to have some private space and time at last. Chef Joseph did up a nice dish - a parmesan basket with seafood. Then my usual baked salmon. I enjoyed the half hour that I had there ... I've forgotten what it was like to be by myself again, no demands made, no expectations demanded, no questions asked. I thought it was like my own private little den ... a lion's den. Safe, silent, secure.

Orthodox Maundy Thursday

So a bit of funny news - Israeli PM's facebook has the most "like" from ........ Indonesia!!! an enemy muslim country!!!! Hahahahahahahahahaha I can't get over this. http://www.jpost.com/DiplomacyAndPolitics/Article.aspx?id=265523  I guess the propaganda warfare of Israel is really working; it's even got the enemies on his side!!!!! Obama's gotta learn something from this!!!

All kinds of herbs

And I managed to boil some chinese medicine for a professor who lost his voice. Got the packet from Singapore and just had to boil it ... like for 2 hours till it was reduced to one bowl. The prof drank it but was terrified that it had a bee in it.

Now I'll try boiling another type for phlegm and cough ... might help my nightly asthma. But long term, it's the operation on the nose that'll help. Don't look forward to it.

The weather has been making everyone sick. There's a cold cold wind blowing but when the sun is up, it gets hot. You never know what to wear - it's either too much or too little.

The Orthodox christians are celebrating the service of the Washing of Feet this morning ... the plaza of the Holy Sepulchre basilica is packed with people. Arab school children are happy - they had 4 days off last week for Catholic Eater Triduum ... then back to school on Tuesday and Wednesday; then today till next Monday another holiday for the Orthodox Triduum. Even some muslim schools have closed.

Jews are preparing for the end of Pesach so they're flocking into the Old City too. Their schools are on holiday too. Police security is everywhere. Even in Mamilla Mall. Well all we can do is wait till the weekend is over, then life goes back to normal - meaning we get to buy and eat stuff that's not permitted during Pesach. Found out that mint sweets are not kosher so they're not for sale this week.

Towards the end ...

We've reached the last 2 days of the Jewish Passover. Today the City was packed with Jews from all sects ... all coming to the Wailing Wall to pray. Security was super tight.

Swarths of wild mustard

It's also the beginning of the Orthodox Christian Easter Triduum. The streets are packed ... but not with the annual Greek crowd. Rather it's the Copts from Egypt who're coming by the droves. That's because their pope Shenouda, just died. He had banned pilgrimages to Jerusalem in opposition to the State of Israel but now that he's dead, Copts have taken advantage of this interim and headed for Jerusalem. The Greek economy has dealt a harsh blow to those who would have normally made this journey to Jerusalem for Easter.

Wild wheat & mustard jostling

Spring is giving one last push before the relentless Summer takes over. In every plot of land or crack in the pavement, a fight for survival has reached it's peak. Massive clumps of wild mustard smother everything in sight, while wild wheat ride high above them. Anemones are losing out ... being choked; and the cyclamen have called defeat once the heat came on a few weeks back. The clash of colours can be violent to the eyes ... but then, it only reflects the violent struggle for survival by the peoples of this region. It ultimately is a fight between life and death - as in the words of the Easter sequence Victimae Pascalis Laudes : "Mors et vita duello, conflixere mirando; dux vitae mortuus regnat vivuus".

Maamoul cookies

Homemade maamoul

Easter time means eating kaik maamoul. It's an arabic pastry made of semolina, dashed with rose water, orange blossom water, and filled with pistachios or dates. And they represent the crown of thorns (round with a hole in the centre) and the sponge with which vinegar was dipped and given to Jesus on the cross (the oval shaped one). Pretty significant cookies.

I've been having severe asthma attacks for the past 3 nights - mainly because of the broken septum in the left nostril. I realised I can't breathe at all with the left nostril ... and the blood and mucuous that flow down my windpipe cause the asthma. I need to sit up if I must breathe. Now I dread going to bed every night - it's a nightmare.

Maamoul at Rossini's

But this evening I had a good laugh with my friend Firas from Bethlehem ... we chatted on the phone as usual every evening. He also can't breathe with his left nostril and needs a surgery to correct it ... like me. But he wants a total makeover - to correct his flat feet, his problematic stomach ... I realised he's got the same health problems as I. No wonder we're such good friends ... we suffer from the same illnesses!! Anyway we're competing to see which of us would get our nose surgery done first.

Well it makes eating maamoul more significant these days, I guess .... like every night it's my crown of thorns and sponge of vinegar.

Easter Monday

Today solemn Mass is celebrated in Emmaus (also known as Qubeibeh) ... amd we recall the two disciples meeting the resurrected Christ along their way home. After Mass the Custos would distribute bread among the faithful. Well I hope you'll meet Christ along your way home too - if you just stay put, you'll never get to meet him.

Musicians at Jaffa Gate

Pesach (Passover) is in its 3rd day - and this means the Priestly blessing at the Wailing Wall. Traffic was halted for several hours, police and soldiers everywhere, thousands of Jews descended on the Wailing Wall to receive the blessing by Jewish priests. The Old City was packed to the brim ... jews for the blessing and Christians for Easter / Holy Week in the case of the Orthodox churches. In the afternoon, festivities were organised at Jaffa Gate - musicians, choirs ... lots of stuff.

Yummy shaqshuqa with Pesach bread

Yesterday I had a brunch that I did not intend. Had just returned from the usual Sunday 5km walk with Buscemi ... it's practically me accompanying him. But just about 1km away from home, received a call from a friend who needed help to transfer some money home in Latin America. As he's absolutely new and speaks no english or any other language other than spanish, he wanted me to help him. So rushed home, left my knapsack and returned to find him and accompanied him about 2 km to get his job down. I was utterly exhausted, knees were aching and it was a boiling 28 degrees. As luck would have it, he being a total greeny here, he brought no documents - nothing - so Western Union couldn't do the transfer for him. I was quite furious with him for making me walk all the way, and even after telling him to bring all the documents, he did not. Anyway in all the disappointment, I decided to cool down and make peace ... the poor chap was almost crying, and sweating lots and his hands were shaking. It was traumatic for him in an Israeli bureaucratic machine that doesn't understand his language. So I brought him to Cafe Hillel on Hillel Street and ordered a shaqshuqa to share. It was nice ... poached eggs in tomato sauce and spices, with Passover bread (bread without leaven). And it was good that he calmed down too.

Shar Pei joy

On the way home, I saw the most adorable sight in all these years. No, I didn't meet the resurrected Christ. But I came across the cutest Shar Pei puppy in Jerusalem. It kept right on sleeping even though we moved it around and pulled its cheeks. Well if meeting the resurrected Christ like in the story of Emmaus, is meant to bring joy and hope, then the Shar Pei puppy certainly did .... God works in mysterious ways.

El Masih qam!!

Easter morning ... the Christian Quarter is stirring with excitement. Shuffling feet along the streets, hushed whispers, shadows drifting ... almost like the furtive Christians of the first centuries in the catacombs. Something was happening ... a public conspiracy ... everyone seemed to know something was happening somewhere; everyone was heading for the same place. But no one was saying word.

From the 5th Station ....

At 3.15am I woke up and prepared to go to the Holy Sepulchre. The muezzin had begun singing the first call to prayer. At 3.30am I was opening the gates of our courtyard ... the muezzin began the second call to prayer with the recitation of the Koran; very very loud, piercing the silence of the City ... but we know that the silence of this Easter Morning is even more powerful than this muslim call. It's the silence of Eternal Life. A warm and strong wind was blowing ... and outside two Israeli security men were checking the exit of their tunnel to the Wailing Wall.

Walked down the Way of the Cross to the 5th Station ... dark, quiet, no one in sight. Went further up till the 7th Station and then I saw people moving quietly towards the Holy Sepulchre like me. I had to reach the Tomb ... for you. In the entire world at that moment, I was probably the only person you know who can do this. And I had to do this for you ... to rush to the Tomb before sunrise and find it empty.

At the Empty Tomb this morning

Reached the Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre around 3.50am ... went up Mt. Calvary to say a prayer. Several people were there in silent prayer. The atmosphere was electrifying. Silence is so powerful.

I prepared to celebrate Mass at 4am sharp - the first Mass of Easter Sunday in the Holy Sepulchre basilica. I was practically alone, yet I could feel the world was present here in the very place where it actually took place. Yes the Tomb is Empty ... he is truly risen. I offered the Mass using the 1st Eucharistic Canon, and remembered each and everyone of you, living and dead ... for here in the place of the Resurrection there are no more living and dead, Jew or pagan, man or woman - all are one in the Resurrected Lord.

After Mass I went to the Altar of Mary Madalene where she clung to Jesus when he appeared to her. Recited Lauds there. It was about 4.40am by then. The first rays of sunlight had broken the darkness. Jews were hurrying to the Wailing Wall for their Passover prayers, muslims walk towards the Al Aqsa mosque. Yes the silence of the Empty Tomb is powerful ... it roars louder than all the calls to prayer or all the sacrifices of lambs. I can tell you because I've been to the Tomb at 4am ... it's empty and silent. He's risen, he's truly risen. Christos anesti! Alethos anesti! El messih qam! Hakan qam!!!!

Harrowing of Hell

Today is Holy Saturday which is traditionally the Harrowing of Hell. That's when Christ descended into Sheol to release all the souls of the past, awaiting the redemption of the messiah. It's in the Apostles' Creed. Orthodox icons show Christ stomping on the gates of hell while raising up Adam and Eve.

The Easter Vigil, strangely enough, is celebrated not at night as with the rest of the world, but in the morning today in the Holy Sepulchre. So Easter has already started for us here on Holy Saturday morning.

Coptic Orthodox procession

For the Orthodox churches, it's the beginning of Palm Sunday - the Saturday liturgy being Lazarus Day and the Palm procession in the Holy Sepulchre taking place in the afternoon. There was a crowd but much smaller than the Roman liturgy last week.

The difference of one week between our Easter and the Orthodox is a relief, as the crush of devotees is much more controllable and the confusion and babble of liturgies taking place at the same time is much lessened.

My Easter hot cocoa

I have not been feeling well the past 2 days. That's because I forgot to close the windows when I slept on Thursday night. We're having a hamsin (heatwave) here with temperatures going up to 28 degrees. But then I caught a dreadful cold with fever the next morning. Then I had the diarrhea as well. So I had to avoid long liturgies. Then this morning I hurt my back while cleaning my room. Painful. Anyway being stuck in my room all this time in the heatwave is awful while everyone else was out in the Holy Sepulchre celebrating. So I went out for a short walk to the Holy Sepulchre in the afternoon and had a hot cocoa at the pizzeria in Latin Patriarchate street. The guy did up a cross on the froth because it was Easter.

Good Friday

Basilica of the Agony in background

The ancient olive grove in Getsemani

Yesterday night I went down to the Garden of Gethsemane at 9pm. Prayers in several languages were said with psalms and readings from the gospels. It was very very crowded. Local Christians from the Territories had come along as well, so most of the readings were in arabic. Unfortunately hoards of tourists also came, not to pray but to take photos, laugh and chat at the top of their voices, spoiling the whole solemn prayer atmosphere. And I'm not afraid to say it: they're americans. There were many of us seated on the ground, out around the ancient olive grove listening to the prayers inside the basilica and praying but these pagan tourists had simply no respect. Walked all over us, laughing, eating. One utterly unbearable couple of girls actually sat in the middle of a praying group and laughed for a whole 20 minutes. Everyone kept glaring at them but being so thick-skinned, they continued with their disrespectful behaviour. I finally got up and told them to keep quiet. And they did. Otherwise I would have no qualms in kicking them out.

Immense crowds outside the basilica

Otherwise it was a deeply profound experience. Much more so as I was with a couple of my students, some who will be graduating this year so it's their last occasion to spend Maundy Thursday in the Garden.

Full moon above

I prayed for each and everyone of you there among the ancient olive trees.

Early this morning, I made the Way of the Cross, in order to avoid the huge crowds that will come later in the morning. Walked the whole 800 metres, remembering you all and praying for each of you. Started at 6am but already many many people had begun the Way of the Cross. The street was quite crowded. Ended at the Holy Sepulchre whre crowds were waiting for the doors to open.

At the 5th and 6th Stations, I prayed especially for all of you, helpers and benefactors of our poor in the Holyland, just like Simon of Cyrene and Veronica.

Crowds waiting at the Holy Sepulchre

Bridgettine nuns at Way of Cross

Indonesian group at 2nd Station

I'm not going to the Funeral Service this evening, where a statue of Christ is taken down form the cross on Mt. Calvary and carried in procession to the Tomb - all within the Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre. It will be very very crowded and the doors of the Basilica will be closed. I'm afraid my diarrhea might get the better of me and I'd be in big trouble, caught in the middle of the liturgy with the doors locked from the outside.

Egg/veggie submarine

Meanwhile I had to control the crowds back at the Condemnation Chapel as too many people were coming in to start the Way of the Cross at 8am onwards. Then at 11am I made some sandwiches for some volunteers who had no lunch. Did 4 submarines - vegetarian and egg/tuna which I think the guys liked. It'll be their only meal for the day while they work hard in crowd control under the very hot sun. They cannot attend the liturgies because by sacrificing their time, they help make the visits of others more profitable and memorable. I think I did a good deed today by caring for the carers.

Pesach eve

Pesach scrubbing at a restaurant

Tomorrow evening is the start of Pesach or the Jewish Passover. Somehow I feel it's a lot more subdued than previous years. Perhaps it's because of the recent bombings and violence throughout the country; perhaps it's also because of the tensions within Jewish society between seculars and ultra-orthodox.

The only signs of Pesach is the big time scrubbing of restaurants throughout the City. Chairs and tables are brought out into the streets, sprayed down and scrubbed of all leaven. In some stricter restaurants, they would even use a handheld burner to burn down the surface of furniture, walls and floor so that all traces of leaven are burnt off.

Coincidentally the Jewish Pesach and our Catholic Pesach falls one day apart - we call it Maundy Thursday of course.

Crowns of thorns

The Mass of the Lord's Supper was presided by the Patriarch at the Holy Sepulchre this morning. It combines the blessing of Chrism. Tonight at 9pm, there will be prayers in the garden of Gethsemani. Will go there to say a prayer for all of you.

Tomorrow begins the Way of the Cross and the Tenebrae service on Mt. Calvary to the Tomb. Wondrously all the cacti are blooming this week ... the flowers grow in a ring, resembling a crown of thorns. So apt for Good Friday.