Saturday, May 31, 2014

Of crows and cats

The events of the past few days have been overwhelming. In the midst of all that, we learnt that the visiting Maronite Patriarch of Lebanon was the target of an assassination attempt. No wonder he had bulletproof cars to bring him around ... and lots of Israeli bodyguards.

Crows atatck .. and the cat runs
And the violence have spread to the animal world. Yesterday morning I heard the crows making a dreadful racket on the terrace. I was watering the plants and ignored them ... but the cawing got more vicious. So I turned to see what was the matter. Two crows are attacking a black cat sitting on the edge of our 5 storey terrace. That's the awful cat that poos and digs up all my plants. The crows got closer and one pecked the cat on the tail. The cat ran like crazy pass me (the only way out) to the terrace of the next house.

One of the lilies
And talking about flowers ... the lilies have finally bloomed. Very beautiful but they require alot of water under the scorching sun.

The workload is piling up again as the end of the school year approaches. I really hope the holidays begin soon ... not that I get a holiday but at least the workload will be alot less ... I think.

Friday, May 30, 2014

Jerusalem Day violence

An endless wave of israeli
Jews coming down toward
East Jerusalem
Wednesday's Jerusalem Day parade was probably one of the most violent I have seen ... and one of the most frightening. Tens of thousands of Israeli Jews marched down from West Jerusalem toward the East where some 50 years ago the israeli army stormed and occupied to make it a "unified" City. Of course there's 2 sides to every story. To the arabs living in East Jerusalem, that was the beginning of the "Jewish occupation" of Palestine. Tensions are never far when this commemoration day is "celebrated".

By 4pm when the waves of israeli jews descended non-stop toward Easy Jerusalem, the police and soldiers began closing down the Muslim Quarter and blockading all roads in and outside the City. In our street, I had to stop for 2 barriers whose police absolutely refused to let me pass. I was diverted to the alley beside the 3rd Station where I managed to join a small group of tourists to get out to El Wad street. There were 5 more barriers along that street before I could get out of Damascus Gate but the thousands of dancing Jews was beginning to block the entrance.

Angry crowd confronting police as
road to East Jerusalem is blocked
An hour later the youthful crowds led by their rabbis became violent. They tried to storm East Jerusalem but the police would not let them. Mounted police blocked the road and finally stun grenades were finally fired to disperse the aggressive crowd. So they started picking on any passing arab and beating them up. It was frightening to see thousands of setting upon one or two arabs, kicked, beaten, spat .... you would have thought the jews had learnt something from their own history about treating others. The seething hatred for arabs flooded the area and arab TV crews were attacked next. The arab cameramen and reporters had to run and hide inside their mobile satellite vans. Several were badly beaten.

More violence ensued as the wave of people entered the Muslim Quarter. I heard families and even
Arab TV crews before they
were attacked
children of arabs being attacked. Later I received news that an israeli policeman was killed when he fell off the roof of a building after a stone was thrown at him. I was getting frightened as I was stuck in the carpark of Damascus Gate photographing the incidents. I could not go home and it was getting very dark and cold ... but the endless wave of israelis kept streaming into the Old City. Suffice to say I managed to reach home only 4 hours later safe and sound but quite terrified.

As expected today Friday, arab revenge attacks started. Last night midnight I saw an israeli jew with a head wound escorted by police in front of our door. That explained the numerous ambulances and police cars rushing to Herod's Gate. The arabs had begun attacking jews. The revenge violence went on the whole night with police firing stun grenades till about 5am when the Muslim Quarter and the eastern City Gates were closed off ... again. Let's see what tomorrow brings .... my friend and neighbour Kahmees is getting married tonight and I hope the tension in the City will not spoil his wedding.

Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Guess who came for lunch?

Meeting the sisters who work
in the kitchen
Word is out ... and lots of photos too .... of an unexpected guest for lunch at our St Saviour's Monastery last Monday. None other than the pope himself. He was scheduled to have lunch at the Notre Dame Centre after a meeting with the Prime Minister .... but suddenly asked to have lunch across the road at St Saviour's instead. Don't know what happened to the prepared lunch at Notre Dame though ... he probably asked the food to be given to the poor. And St Saviour's was not prepared for a papal guest for lunch. He had to eat what we all eat ... spaghetti and a piece of chicken. Nothing more. But I'm sure that's what he wanted ... something homely and unpretentious. But the main reason I think he wanted lunch with us was because he wanted to thank the friars for their 800 year service in the Holyland. His speech after lunch was more or less: if not for the friars' service these 800 years in the Holyland, there would have been no more christian presence, no more churches and sanctuaries. It was a very nice gesture of thanks from the pope. We all appreciated that.  After all he never had a chance to meet or speak with the friars all the 2 days of his visit.

Meeting old Fr Mancini who 50 yrs
ago, welcomed Pope Paul VI

Meeting the friars

Farewell at the courtyard

Thanking the friars

Thanking the cooks

With Fr. General (L) and the
Custos (R)

Monday, May 26, 2014

End of papal tour

From my terrace
So the pope has finally left the Holyland after a 2 day whirlwind tour. He was very obviously exhausted. This morning we got to catch a glimpse of him as he toured the Al Aqsa and Dome of the Rock mosques which are some 500 metres from my window. From the photo, you can see the armoured black car with lots of Waqf security and the papal entourage. The white dot on the right of the car is the pope entering the Grand Mufti's office. That's as close as I can get to the pope.

Crowds gather at Paris Square in front
of Terra Santa College where the pope
was scheduled to pass by
Major traffic disruptions throughout the City as the pope made his whirlwind visit today. The entire area inside and outside the Christian Quarter of the Old City was closed off. As the papal car moved out of the Old City to the New City to a visit to the President and Yad Vashem, crowds gathered along the road to catch a glimpse of the elusive pope who had been threatened by jewish extremists. 26 of them had been arrested yesterday for plotting to do something at the Last Supper Room when the Pope was scheduled to celebrate Mass. The threat of violence is real and israeli security was taking no chances. The funny thing was it's not the usual muslim extremists who were the culprits but jewish extremists. They had no qualms in assassinating their late PM Isaac Rabin for not fitting into their religious categories and agenda.
Security balloon with camera
floats above the Notre
Dame Centre as the pope
met with the Israeli PM

Later he went to the Notre Dame Centre for a meeting with the PM before lunching with the franciscan friars at St. Saviour's monastery. Despite the emphasis that the visit was a pastoral visit and not political, both Israelis and Palestinians took full advantage to tout their positions and justify their stance in the failed peace talks brokered by the USA. The pope has personally invited the israeli and palestinian leaders to go to the Vatican to restart these talks. Let's hope the challenge is taken up.








Lunch at St. Savior's Monastery with
Franciscan Minister General (L)
and Custos (R)

Friday, May 23, 2014

Patriarchal visit

The City is bustling with action. Preparations for the pope's visit: which I think is a misnomer because it's also the greek Orthodox Ecumenical Patriarch's visit. Both leaders have organised this meeting to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Pope Paul VI meeting the then Ecumenical Patriarch Athenagoras in the streets of Jerusalem. So it's actually a joint venture.

However the ugly debate over the Last Supper Room and the rise of anti-christian violence this week have put only the Roman Church into the headlines. But today happily there's one article in the newspapers that featured both leaders as making one visit. It's better to call it a Patriarchal visit

Enormous Vatican flag at
the entrance of the
Notre Dame Hotel
Despite jewish protests and violence, vatican flags and buntings are being strewn over the eaves of buildings and across the streets of the Christian Quarter. Security is super tight because the pope refuses to use the bulletproof popemobile. He wants to get closer to the people. But this is having the exact opposite effect: because there is a real physical danger to the pope's life from jewish extremists, crowds are being kept away from the pope. Extreme measures are taken ... with a timetable even of the opening and closing of roads, streets and entire quarters within the Old City for 3 days. The villages on the Mt. of Olives are worse off. The muslim families are unhappy because they'll have to stay indoors for 3 days. That's because both pope and patriarch are living in monasteries up on the Mt. of Olives. The security there is hypertight.

This evening the bells of the Holy Sepulchre were ringing out. The Ecumenical Patriarch had arrived and made a solemn entrance into the Basilica. Tomorrow the Roman pope will arrive from Amman. A historical pilgrimage for both leaders.

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Palm trimming day

Correction: was just told that the gunfight the previous night at Musrara was not between arab gangs but a gang of jewish youths against arab youths. The jewish gang was out to attack arabs but got lynched. They opened fire when the arab youths gathered ... which I witnessed. News reports today claim that the gang leader of this jewish group and some perpetrators were arrested for their plan to attack arabs be they christian or muslim.

Trimming the palms
Meantime the City is bustling with activity as the papal visit draws near. Despite aggressive opposition by jewish groups, posters and buntings welcoming the pope were being hung throughout the Christian Quarter. Even the palms are being trimmed in the plaza to look neat and tidy.

To those who think they can catch a glimpse of the pope, they'd be sorely disappointed. Security is so tight no one will be near the pope at all. His Mass at the Last Supper Room will be private and the meeting at the Holy Sepulchre with the Greek Orthodox Ecumenical Patriarch will only be attended by a selected few. And in Gethsemani only a selected few religious will get to listen to his address to religious in the Holy Land.

Thanks to Francis Shu, Paulette, Letty, Helena Luk and Irene for their gifts.

Monday, May 19, 2014

Tiring day

My library assistants next to a
replica of Gutenberg's printing
machine at the Holy Land Museum
Yesterday Sunday was a very tiring day. Had to make 2 excursions to 2 museums that had borrowed some of our holdings for their exhibitions. We were officially invited for a private tour. So morning was spent at the Tower of David museum visiting the history of medicine in Jerusalem exhibition while the afternoon was at the Holy Lands Museum to see the Book of Books exhibition. It was all very interesting but I was dead tired. And being Sunday, it meant waking up at 3am (solar time) to teach the next morning.

This morning was full of work at the library especially when one of our volunteers completed his mission and returned to Italy. We're now one man short. And taking on a new part-time worker meant having to teach her from scratch. Exhausting.

Went home afternoon and tried to rest but the phone rang to say workers were coming to install 23 tables in the other library. No rest. Rushed off to supervise their work. They finished at 9.30pm. That's seven and a half hours of work. Was so exhausted but still had to go out and meet a friend at Damascus Gate. But there was big drama there. Gangs of arab youths were fighting each other. 2 gunshots were fired and someone at least was wounded because police and ambulances started rushing in. Never a dull moment here in the City.

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Violence-free Nakba Day

Moon setting on a pastel sky
Nakba Day - Thursday - passed without major clashes. In fact it was totally unexpected even when 2 arab youths were killed by Israeli soldiers in Ramallah. Damascus Gate saw some scuffles after noonday prayers but then everything calmed down and life went on as usual. This year I decided to stay out of trouble by staying out of Jerusalem. Last year I was shot by a water-canon. This year I had an appointment with my doctor 70 km away. As usual I had to wake up at 3.30am to finish my chores before I could get transport to leave for Ramat Gan at 5am. Wanted to arrive early because the last time,  someone came earlier and took my slot and I had to wait till 8am to see my doc. Heading West, the full moon was setting in front with an incredible pastel sky as background.

Sunrise on my espresso
Well arrived very early ... so went to the cafe opposite and had an espresso. No sugar though as it would affect the reading of my sugar-level. Then it was to the doc's. Finished at 8.30am and decided to walk the 3km into town. Nice and quiet as shops have not yet opened. I needed this quiet time. Work has been overloading and commitments were getting out-of-hand. And the last thing I needed was tensions from Nakba Day. Went to my other community by the sea and slept from 11am to 4pm. It was the best sleep so far this year.

Got home in the evening and continued to sleep. Friday passed equally without violence. I was busy composing 35 multiple choice questions for the next day's exams. This morning had to rush up to school for the exams - 2km uphill. But the photocopy machine broke down and I needed 51 copies of 7 pages for the exams. Panic. Managed to get it done in another library. Managed to correct all the papers after the exams and officially my holiday begins once the results were handed over to the office. But knowing my luck, there's going to be more work in store somewhere, somehow.

Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Another day

Tensions are not abating because tomorrow evening begins Nakba Day. That's when the palestinians recall how they lost their land when the State of Israel was founded. Last year was very violent especially at Damascus Gate. I was shot once by a water canon while taking photos of the scuffles. Maybe this year I'll go far away on Nakba Day to avoid trouble or getting hurt.

Caper bushes are blooming all over
This morning I got caught up in a scuffle when police were arresting some arabs for illegal parking. The huge young arabs were going to beat up a tiny blond Israeli police girl for booking them. Other police and soldiers ran up to assist their colleague. In the scuffle to arrest the arabs, a couple managed to escape and one ran up behind me and pushed me out of the way. Nearly fell over on the road as I was carrying a heavy knapsack.

Had a very busy day working from one office to another. Feeling very stressed. Luckily today I could spend some time chatting with my security friends. Shvili the head of the team will soon be leaving his post as he'll be promoted. Hope the rest will stay on. I hardly see the usual gang anymore. Tomorrow Avi and Yogi will be at the post. That'll be nice to chat with them ... if I have the time.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Police protection

Police at the Notre Dame Centre
The tense situation in Jerusalem of Jewish attacks on Christians was very obvious. This morning police in cars and motorbikes surrounded the entrance of the Notre Dame Centre which is Vatican property ... probably to protect it from violent attacks. I should think the police are also at Mt. Zion to protect our Last Supper chapel whereby a massive jewish demonstration will soon take place against the Church. However no surveillance helicopters are hovering ... strange since it's always used when arabs demonstrate.

Weatherwise it's gone all strange again. Very cloudy and cold when the wind blows. Unlike yesterday which was very hot. Some weather stations say it might rain. Let's hope so ... it'll disperse the demontrators better than the police will.

Sunday, May 11, 2014

Christians warned to "stay indoors" in Jerusalem

A crow patiently waits to
see if the body is dead or
asleep 
More attacks on churches the past few days by jewish extremists ... and no arrests so far. The Romanian Orthodox Church is the latest victim of vandalism ... among the graffiti "Jesus is trash". Police have even warned that violence may occur when the pope visits the Holyland in a few weeks time. Tomorrow Jews will demonstrate at the Last Supper Room against christians ... all based on the rumour that the Last Supper Room will be handed over back to the Church. Christians are told to stay indoors to avoid getting hurt. Such is the violence against christians here in Israel ... no different from the surrounding muslim countries where the church is persecuted.
http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/1.589924

This morning the police themselves removed a banner hung on church property that welcomes the pope in 3 languages because some jews were upset. Can this be real? in a democratic State? The situation has become unbearable. And the worse thing is christians around the world aren't just bothered by this at all ... the Mother Church is under attack and no one cares.

Thursday, May 8, 2014

Anti-catholic violence hits Bishops' Conference Office

The alarming rise of anti-catholic attacks in the last 3 weeks have reached an unacceptable level when the office of the Holyland's Bishops' Conference at the Notre Dame Centre (Vatican property) was defaced and vandalised with hebrew threats. The bishops are now calling for international Catholic protests and reactions to this deplorable persecution in a civilised democracy. No doubt the rise of this violence is timed for the Pope's visit in 2 weeks.

http://www.jpost.com/National-News/Catholic-Church-demands-action-on-price-tag-attacks-prepare-to-campaign-351641  and  http://www.haaretz.com/news/diplomacy-defense/1.589569

And no doubt these attacks are the result of the rabbis' opposition of the Israeli govt. returning the Last Supper Room to the Catholic Church ... a property that has always remained in Catholic possession despite being removed from it by the Ottomans and the modern Israeli govt. The title deeds are still in the hands of the Franciscan Order.  http://virtualjerusalem.com/judaism.php?Itemid=12797

The problem is the police have no desire to arrest the Jewish extremists who perpetrate these hate crimes. Vandalism and destruction of Catholic property the past 3 years have not resulted in any arrests.  But every attack on Jewish property was met with swift justice within a day of it's perpetration.

A flash of lightening
illumines the nightsky
The dreadful and deplorable situation was definitely reflected in the heavens yesterday when a totally unusual thunderstorm broke during the night. Massive lightening bolts flashed through the skies all night. Heavy rains and strong winds ... something we'd expect in December or January. This storm is much feared by farmers because the wheat is just ripening for harvest and the fruit trees are just flowering. Rains would destroy all the crops and flowers. Traffic has been disrupted  in most areas and 70 american tourists are trapped in the desert due to flash floods. The heavenly upheaval is ominously suggestive to the dire destiny of christians in the Holyland. Not only are they persecuted in the muslim countries ... now the Jewish counterparts are playing an active hand.

http://www.jpost.com/National-News/Late-spring-rain-brings-Israel-to-a-halt-351631


Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Independence Day

Formation flying over
the steeple of St. Peter's
The solemn day of Remembrane on Monday gave way to revelling and parties in the evening to celebrate Independence Day. The streets in Jerusalem were filled with Israelis holding flags and other accessories. Makeshift stalls selling Independence Day souvenirs and food literally lined Jaffa Street up into Ben Yehuda. Street corners had bands playing and alcohol was flowing from pubs into the streets. Fireworks were set off at 10pm.

I took a brief walk downtown to see the festivities then went to Mandarin's. Ah Ling had cooked rice and tomato fried eggs and beef to take away but insisted I first ate with the cooking team before leaving. They had porridge with fried calamari, beef with szechuen veggies and fried doufu. It was very nice.

Hazy skies spoiled
the display
Early yesterday morning I went off to my other community in Jaffa. Had this day off as I finished my teaching curriculum on Monday. The superior of Jaffa invited me to spend the day there and rest. And I did. Arrived at 6.30am, celebrated Mass with the community and then slept till 10am. Went up to the iconic church's roof to watch the annual flypass of Independence Day. The beachfront of Tel Aviv was packed with crowds. But the weather was bad .... very hazy and strong winds. The airshow was staggered and delayed. But the few formation flights of the airforce were impressive. Our church being the landmark where all aircraft take their orientation became a great advantage for taking photos. All the aircraft had to fly over the church as part of the flight path. The superior and I stood below our steeple and took photos. Incredible sight.

In the afternoon I suffered a bad attack of asthma. Forgot to bring my medicine with me, and pharmacies were closed due to Independence Day. They wanted to bring me to hospital but I thought I could risk the 45 min. bus ride home. Which I did. Only I forgot I still had to walk 1 km home from the bus station. Managed to reach home and got my medicine. Thought I'd died. Then slept right through the night.

Sunday, May 4, 2014

3rd Sunday of Easter

More arab weddings today. Families are rushing from one reception to another ... and the usual case being families marrying within the clan, there can be several weddings within the clan on the same day. Can be a costly affair for the visiting relative as money and gifts have to be given at each wedding.

Flags at halfmast at
Municipality Square
This evening sirens will sound as Israel stops to commemorate the soldiers killed since the founding of the State. It will be a sombre day tomorrow. Solemn music on all media stations, most entertainment and food centres will be closed. Another siren will sound at 10am tomorrow for a minute's silence. Independence Day will follow tomorrow evening at sunset.

The population of Israel is well into 8 and a half million on the eve of Independence Day. But the nation is dreadfully fragmented between secularists and ultra-orthodox, rightists and leftists, israelis and arabs, jews and gentiles. After 66 years of founding ... will there be a little light to shed hope for everyone?

Right now our greatest fear is not political or social upheavel but the dreaded MERS virus that's killing hundreds in the Middle East. Scientists think it's from the mucous from camels' noses. Now it's spread to America from muslim pilgrims to Saudi Arabia. In a few weeks it'll be Ramadan and lots of muslim Palestinians will go to pilgrimage to Mecca. The possibility of them catching MERS and bringing it back is very real. That is a major cause of serious concern ... a war which neither Israel nor Palestine will not be able to battle and conquer. Political aspirations for independence chained to the tyranny of a tiny virus.

Saturday, May 3, 2014

Hot day

Saturday bazaar at
Damascus Gate
The weather has been extreme ... very hot during the day but very cold during the night. People are getting sick. It would certainly be great for the Independence Day celebrations on Tuesday. I expect lots of people will be going to the Tel Aviv beachfront where the annual fly pass and sail pass by the airforce and navy will take place. Was looking forward to seeing it myself but now I was told I have to work on Tuesday. Awful. The weather is good for weddings though. I think there was some 3 or 4 weddings in our Quarter today. That means lots of fireworks the whole night. Don't look forward to the noise.

4 days after the police chief announced that the police force will get tough on jewish extremist attacks on arabs and christians, today more vandalism was perpetrated. Can the police chief be serious?  http://www.jpost.com/Middle-East/Vandals-use-graffiti-damage-Palestinian-olive-trees-in-suspected-price-tag-351220  Responding to US protests that Israel was not doing enough to arrest teh perpertrators, the PM said more will be done ... which is but lipservice because several of Israel's security agencies have publicly admitted that there is no desire nor will to arrest these attackers.  http://www.jpost.com/National-News/Former-Israel-Security-Agency-chief-Israel-does-not-intend-to-stop-price-tags-351225

I had to work this morning and in the afternoon I cleaned my room. Managed to sleep for a few minutes as I'm feeling so exhausted. My friend Jonathan called to say he's visiting the Old City and wanted to introduce me to his new girlfriend. We had a nice walk visiting some churches and had ice-coffee at Notre Dame before they left. Anyway it's back to sleep for me ... I get tired so easily under this weather and my workload and the fact that I'm not eating enough.

Friday, May 2, 2014

Independence Day round the corner

Sunset in Tel Aviv
Friday was unremarkable. Despite some military and mounted police presence, nothing happened. I guess the police wanted to take some precautions as next Tuesday marks Independence Day - 66 years of the founding of the modern State of Israel. What has been upsetting some people is the PM's determination to pass a bill in parliament declaring Israel to be a "Jewish State". That makes all non-jews unqualified to be Israeli citizens ... including thousands of arabs, druze, armenians and other minorities who have lived in this land for centuries. They lose citizen automatically unless they convert to judaism. Perhaps the sun has set for all of us foreigners and non-jews.

Last night I was woken up with alot of shouting in the streets and strong search lights flashing across my room from the window. It was midnight. I went out to the terrace to see what was happening and found soldiers in riot gear directly below searching but not moving in any direction. Arab youths from neighbouring houses were throwing stones and bottles at the soldiers. I was afraid if they soldiers shown their light up at me, they might mistake me for one of the arabs and shoot me. Also the arab youths in the neighbouring houses were yelling at me to stay indoors. The battle continued for an hour or so ... till more troops came into the street. Then things quietened down and life went back as normal. I'm sure everyone wants to live in peace. Enough of the fighting and warring. 66 years is enough. There has not been one day of peace.


Thursday, May 1, 2014

Polluted water

Some of our museum
artefacts at the exhibition
The City flew into a panic as the Municipality announced at 1pm that all water from taps are polluted by sewerage and no one should use the water. Boiling the water for 2 mins is required if anyone wishes to take the risk. Suddenly bottled water from all shops and supermarkets were snapped up. Prices shot up ... a normal 2 shekel litre of mineral water rose to 6 shekels. People were running around the City buying up cartons of it. I managed to buy 2 bottles late at night after work and it costs me that much money. But at least I got to wash my face and brush my teeth in the morning. Later this afternoon we received news that the problem was solved. But we have first to empty all our water tanks, clean our water pipes and taps before storing new clean water in it.

The past 2 days was as usual full of work. Was extremely exhausted. But last night was the inauguration of a new exhibition at the Citadel of David museum which I was invited. It presented the history of medicine and healthcare in Jerusalem for the past 3000 years. Some of our museum and library artefacts were lent for this exhibition. It was quite crowded with dignitaries, the mayor, religious heads, archaeologists and of course big-time benefactors. It was an interesting display and certainly informative and educational. What an apt exhibition when our tap water became a health hazard.
Reception at the exhibition
inauguration

On the down side of news, attacks on christians have been on the rise this week. The catholic bishop of Nazareth received a letter warning catholics will be attacked if they do not leave Israel. Church property have been vandalised. And perpetrators have never been arrested. Finally this morning the US govt. protested that Israel is not doing enough to stop anti-christian attacks. The police chief replied that the police force will step up its action. But everyone, including Israeli newspapers, railed at the hypocrisy of the police force ... if it were an arab attack on an israeli institution, an arrest would have been made within hours. But for israeli attacks on arabs and non-jewish institutions, nothing has been done even after 2 years. Somehow surveillance cameras, witnesses and intelligence gathering always fail when non-jews are attacked. The pollution of our tap water is less threatening than the pollution of justice.