Cold and wet

Rain

 Heavy rain and very cold .... 5 degrees at daytime. The streets are flowing with rainwater and overflowed drains. I had to go to work in the rain carrying my bag, a mass kit packed with chalice, chasuble, missal, wine, a bag of food for my lunch and a huge book wrapped double in plastic bag so it doesn't get wet. With both hands full with 5 kg of things, I couldn't carry an umbrella. I could only wear a waterproof jacket and walked the slippery streets for 1km uphillto get to work. Everyone was telling to get an umbrella and some offered me umbrellas but ... I have no hands to carry an umbrella. Each hand has 2 bags already!!!!

When I reached my office the blood vessels in my hands burst and there were bruises all over. Then I had a meeting with a local Israeli prof who wanted some information on her research. Then another meeting with a PhD candidate from America who also wanted information on her research topic. Then a surprise ... I was told to go to the Holy Sepulchre (in the rain) to celebrate Mass for a Canadian group without a priest. It turned out the small group was made up chinese vancouvians whom I had taught 15 years ago. What a surprise! They didn't expect to see me either!

Anyway I'm stuck here now waiting for the rains to stop as I cannot go home carrying all that stuff. The roads are very slippery and its all downhill. And the wind and rain is very strong. I've called for help. Hopefully someone will come and accompany me home soon. It's cold and wet out here.

Nightmare

On the way to
the bank

 Absolute horror story today ... a nightmare. That's going to the bank. No other country in the world is quite like here. Walked 1km to the City to deposit money because of many books bought for the library and the account was very low on finds. Usually our central financial dept does all the deposits and transfers bu now with a new director, each institute has to do its own banking operations. So I got there and firstly I couldn't register and get a number because the machine kept rejecting my ID. Then a lady teller came to help but she turned into Frankenstein's bride. One hour of screaming and yelling at her colleagues for not giving her the answer she wanted. I was moved from one dept to another and back to her office where I got her to speak to our financial people back at our office. After 10 minutes of hassle, she finally understood and said I am allowed to deposit the money. Yes ... it's about depositing money. You can't deposit your own money here unless it's approved by the bank manager or something like that. She wanted to know where the money came from and I couldn't prove it's provenance. So she didn't allow my deposit to go through. Utterly unbelievable. 

Then when I was allowed to deposit, I was sent to a teller at the other end of the bank. And she couldn't find our account on the computers. 20 minutes of searching with name, account number, passport number ... nothing. Then suddenly she said she found it. By the time the transaction was finished an entire hour had passed. And it takes me an hour to walk back to my office. It was a horror story. You feel utterly abused by the whole drama. All I can advise you is if you're coming to Israel, don't open a bank account. Keep your money under your pillow.

Almond blooms?!

Bonfire by the road

More tit-for-tat attacks today. Newspapers say an arab car was burned in Ramallah. Police are at every corner of the New and Old City. The tension is palpable. But daily life trudge on despite this ... people need to make a living.

It's definitely winter when arab youths start bonfires in the streets and alleys. It's not like they have no heaters back home ... it's a cultural thing that helps social cohesion. Neighbours gather around the bonfire and chat and eat. It's harmless enough except under the tense situation we're in these days, these gatherings round the bonfire are viewed with suspicion and fear by others. Police stand a short distance away, keeping those groups under scrutiny.

Almond blooms

It's not cold as it should be in winter. This morning was 16 degrees and very sunny. And surprisingly I found an almond tree in flower! It's too early for almond blooms!! And it's the only tree in bloom around the Old City district. Climate change is real and very tangible here.

I went for a walk in the New City today ... avoiding as much as possible crowded areas given the present tense situation. I walk slowly and watched life unfold around the City center ... bustling with life, dotted with police every corner. It reminded me of the Intifada days.

One thing I managed to do with duty was go visit Pomeranze bookshop. Michael the owner whom I knew for 30 years had died last month and it was good I went back to offer my condolences to his son Nahum. It brought back so much memories back 30 years under the same situation ... it was the 1st Intifada back then when we first met. R.I.P.

Violence

Tourists at Damascus Gate

Terrorists attacks for the past 3 days. Today 2 jews were shot at the Silwan (biblical Siloam) neighbourhood south of the Old City. Yesterday 9 jews shot dead outside a synagogue 5km north of the Old City. All these were revenge attacks for the Israeli army killing 9 arabs in the town of Jenin the day before. On that same same extremist jews entered New Gate in the Old City and attacked Christians and their shops, just outside our monastery door. Tension is high all around. Police have stepped up their presence.

But tourists continue their visits, oblivious to the violence around. Shops in the Old City are opened but everyone is weary of each other. Police stand at every corner. Jews going to the Wailing Wall to pray rush through the crowds, afraid they'll be stabbed or shot. For sure there'll be more revenge attacks on both sides. We just need to be careful when we go out. 

Jews and Arabs

No rain

Sydney-sider Chinese
group in Shepherds
Field

 It's already the 6th day of the CNY and I haven't updated the blog. Well on one hand I wasn't feeling well. I still have great difficulty climbing stairs. The pain and breathlessness is terrible. On the other hand I was very busy ... so many visits from university students, new manuscripts coming, tons of payments and of course a high volume of Chinese pilgrims. I had to meet various groups from around the world ... the diaspora community that's travelling freely. Only China and Hong Kong are missing. Because walking far is difficult for me, I usually have someone accompany me in case I faint or have a heart attack. I really need the 2nd operation to solve my heart problem.

The weather has warmed up and though it's quite pleasant, we have no rain. This is bad news. It'll be a drought year. We had only a few hours of rain this winter. That means veggies and fruit will go up in prices; water tax will rise. I just checked the weather forecast ... it says this winter is above average in warmth. That's not good. Let's pray for storms.

3rd Day

Spring fruit on sale

 It's the 3rd day of the CNY. It's quarrel day ... so most traditional people stay home and don't visit friends or relatives. Well no fear of that here ... no friends no relatives. 

It was an early day's work as I had to prepare a small exhibition for the Hebrew University students. It's the second group to come in 2 weeks. They're students of medieval history so I brought out medieval manuscripts and illuminated codices to show them. Those that came last week were 2nd and 3rd year students and several have contacted me for further meetings because they want to write their thesis and think they can find material in our library. That's good. Today's students were 1st year and so had less questions.

The weather is warm like yesterday but the nights continue to be chilly. My hands have been bruised again because I've been carrying heavy bags and books. I know I should get someone to help me but the reality is there is nobody around to help. I must do everything on my own. I just have to get creative and find ways to move heavy things without carrying them with my hands.

Meantime the cold spell is making Spring fruit grow faster. Lots of strawberries, citrus and other colorful fruit. I keep telling myself I want to try every type available ... but some are not good for my health. 

2nd Day CNY

New Year decorations

2nd day of the New Year but it was back to work for all of us chinese and east asians. The weather was rather warm ... 15 degrees and very sunny so it was a lovely day. But we couldn't enjoy much of it because we have to work.

I was especially tires as there was so much paper work to do ... closing the financial report of 2022. It was going up and down, to and fro from one dept to another. And it's not over yet. Tomorrow will be another morning of this.

Ah Ling from Mandarin restaurant made tang yuan (rice balls) - raw - so I can boil them later this week to eat with others. I found out the local grocery sells gulah malaka .... so I can boil it with the tang yuan.

I've not followed the local news so I don't know what is happening these days. It's the New Year so I don't want to know bad news.

New Year

Making dumplings

Happy New Year! It was a busy weekend as the chinese migrant workers from all over the country came to Jerusalem to celebrate the New Year, which happened to fall on Sunday. They get a day off for this feast, so it was a long weekend for them. They stayed over for two nights and visited the churches in the Old City. Some had only arrived here to work 5 weeks ago so it's a very new experience for them. 

For the Reunion Dinner, the workers make dumplings and fried stuffed chillies and northern chinese cucumber salad. It was as northern chinese as possible ... with Tsingtao beer.

We had a thanksgiving Mass with Te Deum on the last day of the Tiger year, and then an early morning Mass to start the year of the Rabbit. The patriarchal vicar came to concelebrate the Mass ... he's in charge of all migrant communities. After Mass he had a chinese breakfast cooked by the workers. All in all it was a success. They didn't feel alone during the New Year, there was a little sense of home.

I think later this week the South-East Asian religious will meet up: vietnamese, burmese, indonesian and those we have yet to discover ... It's not easy knowing who's who and where. 

New restaurant

New Indian restaurant

The Lunar New Year is just 2 days away. There's no excitement or festivities as we're a very small minority. Mind you "we" means koreans, chinese, vietnamese, indonesians, filipino chinese who all celebrate the Lunar Spring feast. Maybe we'll meet and celebrate ... but our work schedules are so different we cannot find a common time together. Anyway everything is so expensive nowadays so going to a restaurant to eat is out of the question. But none of us can cook either. So we might just meet to greet each other and maybe drink some coca cola to celebrate!

Talking about restaurants, there's a new Indian restaurant where a sandwich franchise used to be. The cooks are Indians but I think they're hindus. The menu is vegetarian so it's easy to keep kosher. But the prices on the menu show the dishes to be expensive ... like the chinese restaurants.

Don't know what happened today but lots of ambulances and police cars with loud sirens rushing up and down the main street outside the Old City. There's nothing in the news to to explain this.

I'm still not feeling well. Chest pains ... which the cardiologists said is technically angina (so I should be using my nitroglycerin medicine) ... and difficulty in walking slopes and stairs. It's miserable and I really wish I could get better. It's not a good way to celebrate the New Year.

Procession

Armenian patriarch in
procession

Another cloudy grey day with a temp of around 9 degrees. Still the streets are full of tourists. Today was more special ... the Armenian Orthodox Patriarch of Constantinople arrived on pilgrimage with many Armenians accompanying him from Turkey. I happen to be at Jaffa Gate at the pharmacy when I saw a bagpipe band and lots of locals and tourist groups gathered there. Further down the trail towards the City Gate itself the Armenian clergy were gathered around a car with the Patriarch in it. Heads of all the other Churches were also present to welcome him. Then at 1.30pm sharp the band struck up a march and the procession began. I managed to snap a photo of the Patriarch .... he carries the mace of authority.

So news isn't so good for my health. A cardiologist from overseas saw me and said after 2 months with still pains and difficulty in breathing means the first operation was not successful. I need to get more tests done and find out where the other problems are. Like I said, the valve in my left ventricle is not closing properly and there's a reflux of blood. That's one problem that needs fixing. Anyway I'm not any better and that's a point for worry.

Flower bulbs

Flower bulbs

Another cold dreary day. Yet surprising there're lots of tourists coming in. Thousands of poles ... there were 4 Masses celebrated in polish this morning at our place. Second ethnic group was the americans ... all elderly who have time and money to spare. Then come small groups of Chinese from the diaspora, indians and vietnamese. I think the groups will continue till February when it rains heavily and even snow. This period is usually low season.

While the temp hovers around 6 degrees today, the only things enjoying the cold are the Spring bulbs. I saw at the flower shop daffodils and narcissus already in bloom while hyacinths and tulips were budding. Those bulbs need a cold spell to spur them to flower. Usually we have to put them in the fridge for a couple of days before planting them just to get them started.

Today thousands of university and college students went on strike against the judiciary overhaul. But all the protests, no matter how widespread, will not deter the hardline govt. But like I said, this coalition is divided already by each pursuing its own agenda with no regard for the others ... it'll implode.

Sunset

Amazing sunset

And Sunday is over ... the sunset was awesome this evening at 4pm. Despite the rain clouds and cold winds - today was 5 degrees - the spectacular burst of golden rays captured everyone's attention walking in the New City. It gave a sensation of warmth and comfort. 

There's a shortage of Telfast and its substitutes. They're not available in all the pharmacies. Every pharmacist tells me it's not available and they offer other substitutes of substitutes ... which don't really work for me. There were homeopathic substitutes which I tried and didn't work. Another chemical substitute also is losing its effect on me. I went out desperately searching all the West Jerusalem pharmacies but it's true ... Telfast seems to have stopped production. I need to see my doctor again to find out alternative treatment. I'm now very careful with what I eat and drink because my severe allergic reactions may start again.

Today was busy as a group of american seminarians came unexpectedly and wanted to see the library. I had to rush down and open the library and brought them around. Then a family from Australia came to visit me. We spoke for over an hour and they were very interested in history and archeology. Enough of activities ... my chest was painful and I needed to rest. I still have difficulties walking distances and climbing stairs. 

Sand pear surprise

Chinese sand pear

It's the weekend again. And the temp is between 5 to 12 degrees. It feels very cold and damp. Arab boys are burning pieces of wood in street corners to stay warm. Not that they need it ... they have heating at home. But you can't take the bedouin out of them. Everyone is in thick clothes, hoodies and scarves. It feels like Chinese New Year!

As I was out to buy medicines, I saw a fruit stall selling chinese sand pears. A delightful surprise as this fruit doesn't seem appealing to the local palette. It's imported from China. They were expensive ... US$2 each. I just had some spare money and I bought 2 as a treat to myself. I've had a terrible week ... and a small bit of joy was much needed. They were sweet and crunchy and worth the $2. After all it's not going to come back on sale again till maybe next winter.

A Maronite Catholic church was destroyed by anti-christians in a northern city. It's the 2nd Christian building to be vandalised in just as many weeks. Last week the protestant cemetery had severa; headstones smashed ... some were very historical. It's a pity the police didn't catch the culprits. If it were done to a synagogue the culprits would have been caught within hours. This emboldened attacks come as the hardline far right govt takes its first weeks in revamping the govt, the military, the media and just about everything else. The thing is each group is grabbing whatever it can, and all I can see is a torn up society and a looming implosion of the coalition govt as each one is interested only in its own agenda. There's simply not enough pie for everyone to grab.

Game over

It's cold and damp again ... in fact most of us felt it was much colder today then yesterday. It drizzled all morning and the streets are again super slippery. I had to go to work as there was a large group of israeli archivists paying a visit to our library and I had to present some ancient manuscripts and books which they're interested in. They were a lively group, lots of questions and appreciation for our work.

Christmas is over. All the decorations were cleared and packed away this morning. We'll wait for Lent now. And before you know it, 2023 will also have gone. Time flies. Everyone says it. The Orthodox celebrated their Christmas on Friday and because it's a low key celebration, it's practically considered by everyone to be over. I guess the street decorations will also be removed by this week. Christmas was short-lived. 

Cold wet morning

It's Monday and all we hear is bad news ... at least from the non-far right hardline perspective. The PM has approved the hardline request to overhaul the judicial system, practically having powers to override judges' decisions, electing pro-govt judges etc... As warned by other govts, this will prejudice the independence of the judiciary, but that is exactly what this govt wants - a pro-govt judiciary. The finance minister has withheld millions of tax-revenue for the palestinians, saying he has no interest in palestinian existence as quoted by a newspaper. The communication minister is threatening to close down left wing broadcasters. And a minister has called for the death penalty for arabs killing jews; while jews who kill arabs should only be imprisoned. See the direction we're heading?

Christmas again

Selling spices

So my blog was trolled again the other day. Almost 260 views from the usual 40 or so. And my email was blocked all morning. Someone was probably downloading my emails. It happens several times a year. There's little we can do.

The Orthodox Churches celebrated Christmas yesterday, while we celebrated Epiphany. Church bells were ringing at midnight ... but it sounded very faint from where I am. Christmas isn't a big celebration for the Orthodox. There're no parades in the streets or bazaars or lights and buntings like we do. That's why majority of the Orthodox laity prefer to celebrate Christmas with us Latins. The Greek patriarch himself cannot stem the flow of his flock from joining our Christmas so a couple of years back he issued a decree saying the parishes in the villages and towns are allowed to join the Catholic latins in celebrating Christmas on Dec 25th but those in the cities must still keep the old Julian calendar. As a concession, the Catholic Patriarch has allowed the parishes in the villages and towns to follow the Orthodox Easter. It's illy that the Greeks continue to hold on to the Julian calendar when they themselves admit it's off by 15 days .... yet out of pride they will not change. It's cutting the nose to spite the face.

So because of the use of 2 calendars, there are 2 Christmasses hence the school holidays are 2 weeks long to satisfy both Eastern and Western Churches. But it confuses the jews and the muslims ... who make a mockery of it.

Bread

Buying bread for breakfast

Again a cold, damp, cloudy day. It drizzled again several times in the morning. I had to go buy bread at 4.30am as the sisters in the kitchen sent a message to say there's no bread left for breakfast. It's not my responsibility to buy bread but the sisters know I'll do it. Walking out to the 24/7 bakery was hazardous as the streets were very slippery. The air was very cold and many people covered their noses to avoid breathing in the cold air.

Damascus Gate at 4.30am

Yes at 4.30am the streets were crowded. It's Friday and muslims from all over the country and muslim pilgrims as well were going to the Al Aqsa for dawn prayers. But it was quite aggressive as I could hear lots of shouting and chanting in the next street behind our house. There's a reaction to an extreme right Minister who entered and toured the Al Aqsa compound as a symbol of jewish control over the place. Mind you, even orthodox rabbis have called it prohibited as it's unclear where the Holy of Holy used to be and it's sacrilegious for any jew except the High Priest to enter that area. Anyway the police expected unrest so since yesterday evening there's been a huge police presence at every corner.

The haematoma on my hand has reduced quite alot now. But I'm very careful with everything now. I wear shoes all the time outside my room to avoid hurting my feet; and I try not to carry anything heavy but my hands bruise even if I turn the door handle or hold a cup.

Cold

Cold sunshine

 4th day into the New Year and the temp continues to plummet. Forecast is 5 degrees next Monday. There'll be no rain though. This morning saw an hour of drizzle but nothing heavier. Morning fog over the Mt. of Olives is quite dense but it quickly dissipates when the sun rises.

Yesterday I tried to open a bottle of sauce. My thumb and index finger immediately bruised from the pressure. Capillaries burst and internal bleeding spread to the back of my hand. That's the result of the double blood-thinners that I have to take for at least a year. This is making normal life difficult. Bashing my foot last week and having the blood flow for 4 hours without stopping ... the hazards just seem to be building up. I might as well live in a bubble.

Meantime local news is fluttering a storm regarding the new hardline govt revamping the judicial courts so it stays in line with govt policy .... and hence relinquish judicial independence. Likewise the communications minister wants to stop funding or is it close down (?) the 3rd largest media corp because it is critical of the govt. It looks like freedoms will soon be curbed and voices silenced ... starting tomorrow. I guess sooner or later visas for non-jews will also be reduced. News say 70% of secular jews feel threatened by the new govt. But as I see it, each of the extreme coalition members are seeking only to forward its own agenda. The coalition will collapse ... even as it begins, cracks are being covered by diplomatic scotch-tape. An implosion is a matter of time. 

02/01/23

Very cold today

It's been very humid and cloudy early this morning and now it's raining. Weather forecast says it's 9 degrees but it actually feels very much colder. I've had to go to work because a French museum has sent people over to inspect some ancient manuscripts before bringing them over to Paris for exhibition. For something so important, I must be personally there since ultimately I am responsible of these unique and thousand year old parchments.

News is saying Israel has bombarded the syrian airport. This happens when threats to Israel are detected especially when there is a build-up of arms and military equipment. It's not a quiet new year.

I'll be going home in the rain. That's a scary prospect as I'm afraid of falling and breaking a bone or cutting myself and the bleeding will not stop. I have to be extra careful now. But mind you after my operation, I haven't had asthma symptoms at all. That's something good that I'm grateful for.

Now the rains have stopped. The French museum have come and inspected the manuscripts. I guess I can go home now.

1st day

Women huddling from
the cold

It's the first day of 2023 ... the feast of the Mother of God. We had solemn Mass ... all sung. Then it was just another day for us, cleaning our rooms and doing our weekend chores. The weather has been bitterly cold today although the thermometer reads 10 degrees. It's sunny but the wind is so cold, no one believes it is for real.

Along the streets, bedouin women huddle behind pillars to avoid the icy winds while trying to sell their vegetables which are withered by the dry, frosty winds. It's a terrible day to be a hawker ... a very tough life. Those who own shops are lucky they're sheltered and have their heaters on.

Migrant communities continue to celebrate Christmas, and took their holiday today to visit the churches, pray and shop. It's good they have some free time to relax from work. But I guess most are not prepared for such a cold spell as I see many buying jackets and winter caps in the Arab side of the City which usually is cheaper. most of these goods come from China,

My foot is healing well though I still feel an occasional pain. I avoid having to walk too much. And climbing stairs is still difficult for me. I feel quite sick and dizzy each time I have to go down for meals of church. It's very tiring and I don't know if I'll ever grow out of it.