Sunday, December 9, 2007

Travelogue

Today's blog is going to be a travelogue about the visits we made (Lang and I). The weather was pretty fine but cold though, so I couldn't figure of I should wear more or less; and whether I should wear the habit or not. So finally decided on wearing jeans and sneakers (!!!!) under the habit, and brought a backpack with shirt, raincoat etc. Pretty heavy!

I was up at Casa Nova by 9am and took Lang through the Armenian Quarter. We visited the Armenian Cathedral of St James but there was a Liturgy there so we decided not to go in. It's a commemoraiton of St James "brother of the Lord", who was mentioned in Acts 15 and who was later killed (see also Acts. Don't be lazy, check it out yourselves!). From there we went out of the Old City onto "Mt. Zion" and visited the Franciscan Last Supper Room and the Crusader Last Supper Room. It was pretty quiet, only 2 groups that sped in and out. So we stayed for almost an hour in the Crusader room, and we talked about Church architecture and spirituality/theology. Lang is an architect and is here in Tel Aviv this week for an architectural competition. Well, he got the "most interesting lecture on religious architecture" than what he learnt at the U. from me! (Not bad huh?) I'm no expert, but (there's always the 'but") my teacher in Italian (way back in 1992 in Rome) would teach me Italian while visited the Churches in Rome. He holds a doctorate in Franciscan Architecture so he explained architectural styles and changes that influenced or were influenced by spiritual and theology. From there I researched on my own (the past 10 years) Hellenistic, Greek, Nabatean, Crusader and Roman architecture and how it was used by the Church to express its theology and spirituality. Lang was writing notes furiously. We then visited the Dormition Abbey (commemoration of Mary's death) and St. Peter Gallicantu (commemoration of Peter's demial of Jesus).

From there (I changed to civilian clothes) we walked around the city walls into Dung Gate. We saw the Waiing Wall and remains of the Temple from Christ's time; then moved on to the Crusader ruins of St. Mary of the Germans and then walked the whole of the Roman Cardo Maximus ("Straight Street" or the main road of the city built by the Romans in the 2nd century AD). We then bought Shwarma (Lamb roasted on a spit and wrapped in pita bread) and ate in my room for lunch. The Cardo almost ends at my monastery. Then it was change again into the habit, and we went down the Kidron valley (See John's Gospel) to the Garden of Gethsemani. The superior Fr Raphael was at the gate and he gave me the keys so that Lang and I could walk inside the enclosed garden and touch the ancient Olive trees, some over 1,000 years old. Fr Raphael is always good to me. He knew me since I was here as a seminarian back in 1990. the gardens are off limits to the public so it was a privilege to walk through it, and many tourists standing outside were envious. Lang took lots of pictures inside the church; and like typical tourists, when they saw Lang taking photos of certain things I was pointing out, they flocked to hear my explanation and started taking photos as well. I also pointed out to Lang the tomb of Bishop Pasini, our franciscan bishop of Sanyuan (China) who spent 40 years in Gethsemani praying for China after his expulsion and is buried inside the basilica. And Rumanian, Russian, American tourists started photos of the tomb too, even though they know nothing of him! Ahhhh tourists ..... photo, photo.

After that we went to the Grotto of the Betrayal and the Tomb of Mary (Greek Orthodox today - formerly Franciscan). The Greek Orthodox monk was pretty friendly and greeted us and welcomed us. Lang took lots of photos - and the American tourists followed us, listening to my explanations. Hmmmm nothing like a free guide. We then walked back to my monastery but on the way we met a Singaporean group. It was pretty late (5pm dark and all the churches were closed) so we continued to Casa Nova and then had dinner in a restaurent behind Casa Nova. Lovely quaint place runned by Syrian Orthodox. Good local food, nice arabic ambiance, and reasonable prices. Wanna try it out? You gotta come to Jerusalem first!!!!

Reached home by 9pm and was exhausted so slept immediately.

This morning I celebrated Mass on Mt Calvary with Lang doing the readings. 5.30am. A Singaporean or Malaysian group booked for Mass at 6.30am but never showed up. They also booked for Mass two days ago and never showed up. Terrible. They should have at least called so we know the altar is not used and we can give another group to celebrate Mass there. The group is led by Fr Charles Sim. Anyone knows him?

After Mass we walked back to the 8th Station to buy apple buns for breakfast. Oh but before that I showed Lang the Ethiopic Church and the Coptic Church. The Ethiopians were having Sunday Mass. And the singing is stupendous. No its not like a choral+organ kind of stuff that we are used to; it's ancient chanting, polyphonic (naturally like most african singing), languid is what I'd describe it, almost melancholic but still very dignified. You have to experience this. It transports you into another world. I was explaining to lang that the Etiopic church is one of the oldest since it is recorded in the Book of Acts that Philip baptised the Ethiopian eunuch near Bethlehem and tradition says he brought Christianity into Ethiopia after that. Now that is ancient! As we walked down the Cardo again, we met a Singaporean couple rushing up and down holding a map. They had parked their hired car outside the Old City and were being charged over US$10 an hour so they wanted to quickly see the Last Supper Room and get back before the price gets too high. Well obviously they were lost. I gave them directions and they ran off. Lang and I then decided not to have breakfast at Casa Nova but back at my place, so we made a huge u-turn across the Crusader markets. And guess what? Found the Singaporean couple again. Totally lost! Hmmmm so much for Singaporeans taking directions. Got them back on track again and as they were leaving the wife said "God always sends an angel when we get into trouble". My good deed for the day.

Well we had breakfast in my room and then we had to rush off to the New City because Lang needed to catch the mini-bus for Tel Aviv. He's leaving Israel this afternoon. Anyway it was good having him around - it was a good break. Reminded me of Luca, Andrew, James, Lawrence and Lily last year when they came. I guess I still miss the Sydney youth group that they belong. They're great guys and lots of fun.... and very polite.

All in all I must have walked 7 km these two days. Good sign - my ankle isn't hurting anymore. Lang said something that got me appreciating again what it means to live in the Holyland. He said, while eating his blueberry bun in my room, how unique and wonderful to walk everyday on the 2000 yr old stones, where people from the bible, not just names, actually lived and died. Yes its so true, but for us who live here, we tend to take it for granted. Like 8th Station of the Cross = bakery. Aiya, gotta change this mindset.

So journey, journey ..... Lang is flying back. I'm still trudging the ancient stones, and you guys? Why not come and trudge with me? If these ancient stones could speak, what will it tell you?