Chol Hamoed

This morning I had to rush off to the Rosary Sisters' convent to send off Sr Laura and friend. Had to make sure they left safe and sound on the right shurut (minibus shuttle to the airport). Rushed home because Jadallah wanted to bring me to Mishor Adummim to buy bookshelves. That's the Jewish settlement in the middle of the desert just before you reach Jericho. It's amazing to find a huge city surrounded by miles of desert mountains. No ... they didn't have the bookshelves I wanted, but I found out (actually I saw) that the ancient ruins of St Euthymius's monastery are right next to this shopping mall. It was one of the largest desert monasteries in the 5th century, founded by St Euthymius and his tomb is right in the middle of the complex. Very impressive. Of course all that remains today are foundations and parts of walls. And further down the road is the ruin of St Martyrius' Monastery ... an even bigger cenobitic complex of the Byzantine era. The monks who lived out here in the desert must have been very brave - not just living a penitential life, eating only bread, dates and water; but also to suffer the constant arab raids on their monasteries.

As I walked home down our lane, shop-keepers called me over to tell me the dreadful news that the guy who sold freshly-squeezed orange juice in front of the Lutheran Church (near the Holy Sepulchre) was found dead yesterday. His body was mutilated and thrown some 6 kms away near the Kalandia checkpoint that leads to Ramallah. Everyone was very shocked by this. I went home to tell the rest of our guys and they too were shocked. Violence, reprisals, dangerous gossip always lead to a death. Yesterday night two muslim families behind our place also got into an argument. We think someone will die as a result. It almost always does. Honour killing, they call it.

Thousands of Jews continue to flock into the Old City during this period known as Chol HaMoed - the intermediate days between the 1st and 8th Day of Sukkot. They bring their 4 species (citron, myrtle, palm and willow branches) to the Wailing Wall to pray. Then they join guided tours led by yeshiva students to visit the muslim and christian quarters. Arab shop-owners try to get out of trouble by closing their shops early. Soldiers and police every 5 meters apart!

And after umpteen years living here, the shop attendant who sells fruit at the corner of Damascus Gate finally smiled at me and asked "How are you?" this evening as I passed by to bring medicine and stuff to Motehr Theresa's sisters. You can imagine I've been passing by that shop everyday, buying fruit there every other week, and there is no smile, no how are yous. It's always "5 shekels one kilo". Slap, bang in a plastic bag, payup and get lost. Hmmmm things are changing I see. A little customer service to pep up the sales.