Samaria

Archaeological ruins on Mt. Gerizim

The heatwave in Italy and Spain has brought temps soaring to above 40 degrees. This will flow towards us by next week. I can't imagine what it'll be like as 35 degrees now is already unbearable. I have several conferences to deliver next week so I hope I can stay indoors.

This morning I had to make a visit to Nablus in the Samaria region on short notice. It's over 65 kms north of Jerusalem ... in the heart of Palestinian Territory. My worry was having to pass through the dangerous border checkpoint of Qalandya where riots and violence is an almost daily event. Well the taxi driver knew better and entered the Territories through another checkpoint. All went smoothly. Then it was an hour long journey through mountainous wilderness bordering the desert.

Staircase in church leading to
Jacob's Well

Nablus is the arabic corruption of the greek Neapolis (in Italy it became Naples) - the new city which the greeks and romans built in place of ancient Shechem. The city is much more modernised than I last visited it. Lots of high-rise shopping malls ... but the roads were still narrow and crowded with too many cars. Infra-structural renewal is very much needed here. At various corners of the roads and buildings there are remnants of greek and roman buildings or columns or tombs. It's a very historical place but the arabs here don't know how to harness history for tourism and economic advantage. Too bad.

I also visited the Greek Orthodox Church that is built over Jacob's Well. For 2 millennia pilgrims have come here to venerate this site. The Well itself is below the pavement ... a type of crypt. You must descend a flight of steps in front of the altar in order to reach the Well. The well continues to have cold fresh water. It is here that Jacob dug this well and Jesus met the Samaritan woman.

Then there was a short stop over to the convent of M. Teresa's sisters to see their work, give a donation and the sisters packed some curry and bread for my meal as I was journeying all day without food. It was really very nice.