Sick

 While the streets today were still packed with jews, muslims and christian pilgrims, there was less tension. The soldiers have all withdrawn from our area. But this calm came only after several clashes - some quite violent - around the Old City. No one knows next week at Yom Kippur if there'll be an uptick in violence. We're hoping not.

Ethiopians with candles

Yesterday was also the Orthodox feast of the Holy Cross. The Old City was ostensibly crowded with ethiopic and eritrean christians, all dressed in white and carrying candles. I saw a group of women praying at the top of Damascus Gate while others mingled around after their vigil prayers. It was a beautiful sight ... in the midst of all the violence.

I'll have to go for a check up tomorrow as my heart doesn't seem to be right. My right foot is terrible swollen and the nursing nuns think its the heart. Others who saw it tell me to go quickly to hospital as something is not right. I can feel something wrong but I'll see what the doc says tomorrow.

Clashes

Clash at Bab Hutta

 The New Year Day past with clashes and violence in various place of the country, and especially here in and around the Old City. Jews were permitted to enter the Al Aqsa Compound under police guard and muslims began to protest. Clashes occurred and at 8am yesterday morning, I walked past an old man on the ground with a bleeding head wound. Old women were shouting slogans at soldiers passing by while Red Crescent workers and trying to get the old man into an ambulance.

In the evening, crowds of arab youths gathered at Damascus Gate to chant slogans and sing songs to provoke the Jewish crowds returning from prayers at the Wailing Wall. Police were on hand but 

Today there were clashes again at Bab Hutta which is between my house and St. Anne's Church. Crowds of jews were massing around the alley that leads to the Al Aqsa compound, blocking the way for muslims to enter or exit. Police were forcing the jews back and scuffles resulted. It was 5.15am and I was on my way to the Ivrea convent to celebrate Mass. It was tense in the dark streets and people hurried to get out of the City.

Muslims pray outside closed
Gate

At Herod's Gate, police had closed the entrance to all arabs below 50 yrs of age. The younger arabs started praying in the plaza in front of the Gate. I was allowed to go out but I wasn't sure if I could get back in. An hour later after Mass, I returned to Herod's Gate. Groups of students unable to prove they study in schools inside the Old City were left outside the City Gates waiting for teachers to identify them. Entry was still forbidden to those below 50 yrs of age. I took off my mask and the police let me in. Tourists are allowed to enter. I guess it will be like this for the next 3 weeks. 

New beginnings

Pomegranates

 The Jewish New Year begins in 24 hours and there's tension in the air. More jews are walking to the Wailing Wall to pray and there has been some altercations between them and arabs. Still other arab shopkeepers are undaunted and make brisk sales of fruit and veggies with the jews who are forbidden to work (cook) on the New Year's day. Pomegranates are the symbol of the New Year as the many seeds symbolize the many mercies of God. Locals also eat apples with honey ... a sweet beginning to the year. It's actually quite nice if you can get the tart, green variety that goes well with honey.

The New Year ushers a series of other holy days such as Yom Kippur and Sukkot and Simhat Torah which are also no-work days. Public transport, shops and government offices will all shut. The country practically comes to a standstill for 3 weeks. I read an italian article saying anyone who who doesn't like work but still wants to be paid, should work in Israel.

I've had a very tiring day. I had Mass at 5.45am at the Ivrea convent, then walked 4 km to the Ratisbon chapel for the Eritrean Mass at 8.45am and then it was finishing off some translations and research. Then someone wanted to bring donations of clothes so I wanted for him to arrive. I'm feeling very tired as for the past few days I've been getting up at 2am and sleeping late because of the dust in my room. I'm hoping they finish the job soon ... 2 months of dust and asthma. I was told only on Monday will it end. Well at least it's the start of the New Year and there's a promise of clean air again.

Mooncakes

Mooncakes

 Yesterday was a day off work. I went to Jaffa very early at 4am to meet up with a friend who kindly brought over gifts from home. Mooncakes! While chinese factories in Tel Aviv make and sell mooncakes, it's of the northern variety that I don't eat. Full of nuts. now I have lotus paste with egg yolk mooncakes. Wonderful!!! We may be 2 weeks past Mid-Autumn Festival, but till its reason to celebrate when there're mooncakes in the Middle East!

It was good to be back in Jaffa early in the morning. It's crisp and chilly, and the salty sea air is very refreshening. The few short hours I spent there was enough to relax me ... not least because I don't have to breathe in dust from our renovation works. But I still had to return home. With the minibus running, I was able to get home by 12pm. Then being re;axed by the sea breeze, I slept for most of the afternoon ... recuperating the many lost hours of sleep in the night when I was choking and coughing from the dust.

Meantime the Jewish New Year starts Sunday night. There's been threats of violence if the jews are allowed to enter the Al Aqsa compound. Shots at several places in the country were recorded, and a guy was throwing granades, so it seems, from the syrian border into israel. He was shot. So we should be extra cautious these few weeks. Caught in a crossfire will be a great tragedy when you're innocent.

Disruption

Major road works

Terrorist attacks seem to be occurring daily. Yesterday a poor old lady was killed by a terrorist in Tel Aviv. The attacker has since committed suicide. So far it looks like lone wolf attacks which we saw 8 years back. Let's hope it will be contained and not spread further. The military has announced that borders with Israel will be closed during the 3 week Jewish holidays. So I've no plans to enter palestine this month.

Meantime there was internal fighting among the arabs in Nablus as rival political parties clashed due to the arrest of someone. It's not safe to enter into these territories as you never know what might happen. In fact the newspapers say cars passing by the main road to Nablus are being shot at.

And all the roads along the north wall of the Old City are undergoing major works. It appears the municipality wants to reduce it to 1 lane either way and extending the pedestrian mall. Well it'll cause a lot of traffic jams as it's the busiest part of the City ... and these roadworks are already creating big traffic jams in itself. The municipality should be expanding it to 2 lanes either way instead of reducing it. I can't see the logic behind except "for security" - which is the excuse used for everything.

I've moved back to my room as the workers told me the removal of ceiling plaster is over and they cleaned up the corridor. Now it's re-plastering the ceiling which will not be dusty. So I moved back last night with JJ, who was happy and felt secure in familiar surroundings again. We both managed to sleep through the night though there's still a lot of minuscule dust. I started coughing and wheezing 5 minutes upon returning. I think we just need to wash down the whole place with water to remove the dust.

Well these weeks are characterized by one word: disruption. Whether at home or out, everything is being knocked down and pulled apart.

Long night

Sunrise

 Just watched the funeral service of the Queen. Lots of pomp and pageantry... to hail the end of another Elizabethan era. A world war, men in the moon, internet .... all happened in her reign. 

The renovation work is just too much for me. I cannot sleep. Dust in my nose and on my lips. I'm wheezing 24 hours. Today I decided to move and sleep in my office. I've not coughed once and no wheezing at all. JJ too ... I brought him with me. The poor guy has small lungs so he suffers more than me.

Newspapers are reporting that terrorist attacks are possible for the next 3 weeks of jewish holy days. People are told to be careful. I guess we'll all have to take extra precautions. Collateral damage is not good.

Well today was a whirlwind of activities. Class at 4am, then moving to the library. Several meetings. New work assignments for the volunteers. A briefing on the new museum, a funeral of the mother of one of our workers who is a good friend, Mass 3km away in the Ivrea convent, back at the library and now trying to sleep on an uncomfortable chair. It'll be a long night.

Dou sha bao

Sabbath evening

 This morning was very cool and humid. I decided I needed to go out because the dust is simply impossible for an living thing to survive. Everything in my room is coated with a layer of fine dust, paint dust to be exact ... probably containing lead. I couldn't sleep all night as I was coughing from dust in the throat and nose. Even poor JJ was sneezing all the time. 

I walked very slowly 2km up to the Supersol supermarket which I have not been for over 2 years now. The layout was slightly changed and it was good to see a section where products nearing expiry dates were being sold at a discount. I got some beansprouts and the sisters asked me to buy a dozen eggs. Then I walked to Balangan the longest serving asian grocery that's been here since 30 years. I wanted to buy fresh kimchi which docs said I need to reset my gut biome but the koreans didn't make any. So I got some miso paste instead. Then I walked the long distance home. I really enjoyed the fresh air. Going home was very reluctant. My coughing came straight back.

Dou sha bao

Yesterday Ah Ling from Mandarin restaurant made red bean buns (dou sha bao) and asked me to go collet it. While waiting for it to be steamed, she gave me sushi to eat as some of her friends were rolling sushis for sale. It was very nice of them to remember me. I enjoyed everything ... eating it without dust in the mouth. 

I guess tomorrow I'll have to bring JJ with me to work and stay in my office till the workers go home. Otherwise I'll be seriously ill from the dust and end up in hospital.