Tisha B'Av

The sun has set. Shops and businesses throughout the New City have closed. The streets are quiet. No more public transport. It's Tisha B'Av ... the 9th Day of the month Av in the Jewish calendar. Tonight and until sunset tomorrow, all observant Jews will fast, sit on the floor, go unwashed, will not greet anyone, and mourn. It's the day when both Temples (built by Solomon in the 9th century BC and Herod's built in the 3rd century BC) were both destroyed on the same day 656 years apart. It also commemorates the 12 spies sent by Moses who discouraged the Jewish people from entering the Promised Land, the destruction of Jerusalem in the 1st Jewish Revolt (70 AD) and the failure of the Bar Kochba revolt against the Romans (c.135 AD). It is the saddest day in Judaism.

But some restaurants are opened - like the chinese restaurant. The manager told me that non-observant Jews will come to eat. In fact she called me up yesterday to come for dinner because they made a whole bunch of dumplings (kautzee as they call it here). So I went over for kautzee, and spicy/sour soup and some fried noodles. Real bad for my sugar level. This afternoon she called again to say the old Por-por who works in the kitchen had boiled chicken porridge and asked me over for dinner again. It was really nice "chicken chok" and she also gave me two tumblers to bring home. And she refused to take any money for the two dinners. It's a quiet season for tourism and she said she has more time to cook for the religious people. She's a protestant and she also sends food to some chinese pastors and their families living in Jerusalem. That's very nice. And the Por-por remembers me when she cooks cantonese food (not in the menu). But wow .. it's bad for my sugar level.

Now it's late at night and helicopters are flying overhead. Soldiers and police have flooded the Old City, even the mounted police are here with their magnificent horses. It's said that they're in the Old City not so much to prevent arab protests but rather to stop fervent Jews from entering the Mosque to tear it down and rebuild the Temple. Whatever the reasons, the tension can be felt throughout.

As a christian, it's easy to overlook Tisha B'Av because Christ taught of a new temple, the body which is the abode of the Holy Spirit. But one can not deny the historical reality that once the Shekina - the glorious presence of God once resided in this most Holy of places, just 500 meters from my room; a presence that was withdrawn because of senseless hatred for each other.

Tonight the Jews will read the Book of Lamentations and Job. I think I'll read abit of it before I sleep.