Tuesday, March 10, 2020

Summertime

Summer weather at Jaffa Gate
Yes I feel today is the 1st day of summer.  The sun was beating down like an August day ... though it was only 17 degrees. Many people were only in T-shirts and shorts. And being Purim, many others were in costumes. It's all part of the fun feast. And of course there's the ubiquitous Hamantaschen or "Haman's ears" ... the iconic cookie for Purim.

Haman's Ears cookies
There 's still alot of tourists ... this morning the Old City was packed with visitors from a cruise ship. And there was one guy who was sick and leaning against the wall, coughing, wheezing, vomiting, spitting .... he was sick ... and he didn't have the responsibility to go see a doctor or stay in the cruise; and the tour guide should have called him out instead of bringing him around the Old City ... it was so disgusting and terrifying. Other tourists and shopkeepers called the police and ambulance. It's disgusting how tour agencies disregard all health laws just in order to lose business. The govt should come down hard on these agencies and guides. All our lives are endangered by this one reckless act.

Ice cream time
Anyway this afternoon a good friend came to visit me from Tel Aviv. Haven't seen him for over a year. He came to tell me his wife will be having a baby in August ... their first baby. And he was so excited and came all the way here just to tell me. He brought me out to lunch ... luckily both of us are vegetarians so it was an easy choice .... salad for lunch. As we walked to my office ... I noted the scorching sun but cool breeze, the freshness of the air and remarked it felt so much like Tel Aviv ... the Tel Aviv air. My friend also agreed ... it was an unusual Tel Aviv feel in Jerusalem. And I liked it very much. So like in Tel Aviv, we went for an ice cream. It just was the right thing to do in such a marvelous weather.

... somehow I get the feeling the virus will soon disappear as this fantastic weather hits us for the next week.

Monday, March 9, 2020

Purim

Purim fun
The week has begun and the country is preparing for tonight's feast of Purim. Already last weekend festivities have taken place in Tel Aviv .... which is really out-of-this-world because the costumes they wear are utterly original. And very very fun! Just saw a family with dad dressed as an exterminator, the mum as a can of insecticide spray and 5 daughters as cockroaches. And those outlandish ones are beyond description. You have to see it to believe. And of course the weather was perfect for street fun. That reminds me ... I must buy the Purim cookies called Haman;s ears. Will post a photo of them when I do get them. If I get them .... now I have to consider even going out into town because there'll be anti-asian racism in the streets and shops. Perhaps I'll be brave today.

Jerusalem on the other hand is more restrained ... But above all these parts and festivities .... have we forgotten that it's prohibited to gather during the coronavirus? The big joke around town is the ultra-orthodox street poster calling for a mass rally at the Wailing Wall to pray against the virus. Mass rally? Really? Anyway  that's how it is. I am staying as alone as possible in my room or office .... going in and out only when early morning or late at night. Better safe than sorry.

Empty market at Damascus Gate
The hotel and tourism industry is tottering because groups are no longer coming in. Hotels are asking the govt for help. I guess the tourist guides will also be aided by the govt. But what is worrying is the churches here which are the main attractions of the Holy Land ... if just one case of contamination is found ... then everything will collapse.  Prudence is not panic. Responsibility is more important than impression.

Right now a good friend is defending his doctorate. Because of the virus and prohibition on gatherings, he's doing his defense with a closed audience. He invited me to a celebratory dinner this evening at his monastery. I might go ... depending on how cold it'll get. I'm happy he earned his doctorate. He worked very hard for it.

Sunday, March 8, 2020

Cold Sunday

Blossoming almonds
It's International Women's Day today .... and ironically it falls on the anniversary of the murder of Hypartia the Alexadrine philosopher and mathematician ... one of the last Neo-Platonist non-christians ... the emblem of the ancient pre-christian world in 415 AD. And a woman. Christian mobs murdered her simply because she was not a christian. Such enlightenment. Though it cannot be proven, scholarly circles still think Cyril of Alexandria, saint and patriarch, had something to do with it.

Yesterday thousands of tourists trapped inside Palestine were allowed to leave the enclave but Israel won't accept them so they were immediately driven by coaches directly to the airport.  Mind you Israel did more than required, booking flights, switching flight arrangements etc... to make sure everyone was safely aboard. Now it's a waiting game .... 14 days to see if anyone else is infected by the virus.  https://www.ynetnews.com/article/036Q4U076?fbclid=IwAR3iw7odcnndQX4_OTlJm8pahi-Wz4Ahje0A_9g1j_V5ZL_-NonaHbEbxS4#autoplay
Deacon and Acolyte

I've been avoiding crowds at all cost as I was having the chills and sniffles yesterday. It was very cold and wet. This morning I had the armenian Mass but I was coughing because of a dry throat. I think some people were worried. Anyway Mass went ahead. My deacon and acolyte were great helps. They've learned some armenian prayers and hymns so they could respond to my prayers. And the usual congregants were there. It's always so good to meet them. I've to start learning the special Easter prayers. It takes some time because its not only the right pronunciation but the right tune. Everything is chanted in the armenian tonal system ... which is not always easy.

I guess what I need most is sleep. 3 hours sleep a night is killing me ... but I wake up worried about work, or am too cold ... Maybe an early summer vacation is what I need. I'm considering retiring. That's even a better prospect.

Saturday, March 7, 2020

One day worse

Storming night
Things are turning for the worst as schools in Jerusalem have all been shut today. Municipality has issued warnings and so this morning we even received news that the revered Dominican Bible Institute "Ecole Biblique" will be closed for 2 weeks. Our faculty immediately followed by issuing a notice that our school and library will be closed for 2 weeks. And rumours are going around that the entire Old City will be locked down on Monday as well. People have started panic buying. Everyone is tensely waiting for the decision and announcement.

Anemones and Irises
Last night a friend called to say he was stuck in Jerusalem because being Sabbath there was no public transport, and he had no money to get a taxi and there was one of the hardest storms ever to hit our area. He wanted to walk home 4 kms in the tempest. I quickly went out to meet him 1km away to lend him some money to get a taxi. But I was totally soaked to the skin. The last time it rained like that was 30 years ago. Temperatures dropped to 6 degrees. I got home by 9pm shivering and hoping I won't catch another cold again.

This morning the sun shone like nothing happened last night. The wind is still very cold but it was a bright sunny day. All our library staffs ... from both libraries went out for a long walk to the southern mountains to see the wild flowers. It was a very nice excursion. The wild anemones were blooming everywhere ... and there were wild irises as well. Almond trees were profusely flowering and the barley are just packing their heads with starch. It was good to get out of the Old City that's still packed with tourists ... and you never know who's sick and who's not. Out in the open with sun and strong winds, there's no fear of the virus ... especially when there's no one else around.

Tomorrow morning I have the armenian Mass but I think soon the Archbishop will also suspend public masses here in Jerusalem. It's incredible how a microscopic virus can bring a City to its knees ... which even no war we've had so far been able to do.

Friday, March 6, 2020

Hailstorm

Storm over the City
Hail and thunder today ... the weather turned very stormy by mid-morning. Very dark skies with strong gusty winds. And the 26 degree afternoons we've been having dropped to 9 degrees. This seesaw flux in temperature is making everyone sick ... and not helping one bit the spread of coronavirus. I didn't go to the other library to work today ... didn't want to risk catching another cold in this storm.

And talking about the virus ... the entire West Bank is under lockdown. The Archbishop had to send a second pastoral letter at night to inform all the parishes and schools in Palestine to suspend Masses and other meetings, maintain hygienic practices etc... Tourists who have been sent out of Bethlehem last night found out that Israeli hostels didn't want them either ... so many have flown home. Hopefully not to spread the virus to their own countries. A poor tour bus driver caught the virus from a group of greek pilgrims and he is now in hospital with pneumonia. Unfortunate casualty.

Cold wet night
Today is Friday and I started out fasting like last week ... meaning no food ... but by noon I was feeling faint. I hadn't eaten since yesterday when I only had 4 small buns for the whole day. So today I ate some rice to prevent a fainting spell. Too bad. I've decided not to join any Way of the Cross on Fridays ... because of the danger of catching the virus ... and wisely the Custody has suspended this devotional on advice by the diocese. Likewise I'm not going to the Saturday night vigils at the Holy Sepulchre ... pilgrims kiss the stones and touch the stones ... it's definitely not safe there.  

Meantime the political wrangling over who will form the new govt is sharing headlines with the virus. Goodness knows how it will end. There's been clashes at the Gaza border today I hear ... with some casualties. Hopefully with the fouling of the weather ... things will lessen in tension. Mother Nature has ways to deal with humans ... from hail and storms to viruses.

Thursday, March 5, 2020

Corona in Bethlehem

Empty Damascus Gate
Catastrophe!!! This afternoon news broke that the 1st 4 cases of coronavirus have been confirmed in Bethlehem. The Palestinian Authorities took immediately steps to close the borders, banning all foreigners from entering the West Bank, all Bethlehem hotels must stop accepting foreign tourists ... and most importantly all religious places of worship are closed for 14 days. That means the Basilica of the Nativity will be closed to the public. It is very drastic and has surprised everyone. Then again we all expected the virus to affect Bethlehem ... a major tourist site that draws millions from all over the world. It was only a question of time. Even the arab bus company that brings people from Jerusalem to Bethlehem have been issuing notices not to let asians board the buses. We're keeping a close eye on the development in Bethlehem.

Municipality Square ... empty
Meantime Israel has banned visitors from Germany, France, Spain, Austria and Switzerland from entering the country. As more and more groups are being turned away, hotels and restaurants are hurting. The Passover feast will be very low key and foreign jews will not be able to come and celebrate. And Purim next week should be very festive in the streets. However Israel has banned crowd events. But it's not very effective because no one seems to pay any attention to self-quarantine ... students, basketball teams, synagogue congregations still go ahead with their planned gatherings. That's scary when means to control the spread is ignored .... it's an epidemic waiting round the corner.  Tourists groups to Israel have trickled and in the evenings, you can feel the silent tension when iconic spots like Damascus Gate are empty of people.

Meantime Israel bombed Syria along the northern border and the syrians responded. Definitely not a good time to start a war when internally the virus is chewing away the structural fabric of Israeli and Palestinian society. Citizens from both areas are badly divided on how to deal with the virus ... and disunity is not a good foundation for a fight.

Iran while battling major coronavirus contagion, is now faced with floods in some regions and a plague of locusts in other regions. It is biblically epic.

Wednesday, March 4, 2020

Of fish and flowers

Blooming almond tree
The weather is so unbelievably fine ... sun shining, bright blue skies, cool wind. The almond trees all around the Old City are finally blooming. Stunning pink flowers with deep fragrance. Days like this should be spent outdoors and not stuck inside the classroom or office. Here we all agree on that ... and still remain in our classrooms and offices. Yes .... there're responsibilities and obligations. And the virus epidemic to worry about.

And Iran is on the warpath .... not with America or Israel ... but on coronavirus. Almost 100 have been infected and it's the only country where the govt. leaders themselves are infected ... from the vice-premier to the minister of health .... of all the ironies. And even America has no time to spar words with Iran as it tries to control the epidemic in it's own soil.  They have been too laxed and have now realized the virus has entered the country 6 weeks ago. Who knows how many thousands are now carriers! Catching up with e virus in such an expansive country will be difficult ... and the easy-going attitude of the people will only exacerbate the contagion. It's exactly what Italy has and is going through ... people who simply laugh it off and dismiss it as exaggeration. Well Italy is now the world's largest exporter of coronavirus ... thanks to stubborn ignorance. Prudence is not panic.

And talk about prudence or lack of it ... a teenager who has the virus didn't bother to quarantine himself but went to a football match last night. Now all 5000 spectators must be quarantined. You can be sure more than 50% of them will not do it, so they'll spread it another 5000. It's unbelievable ... they're like the italians.
Fish for sale
Several nights ago on my way home from work I passed by the open market at Musrara and they were selling fish ... as they always do on Fridays. There was a large variety that I've never seen before ... including swordfish. Must have been very expensive! I have always wanted to buy a fish head and cook curry with it ... but since I have no access to a kitchen, I've put it off.   

Some day'll I'll cook the curry. Famous last words.