Quiet Friday

car-by-car stop and search

Today Friday saw a strange calm in Jerusalem's Old City. There was heavy military presence but there was no riot or trouble at all. Instead rioting and skirmishes took place outside of Jerusalem in the Territories like Kalandya, Hebron, Ras al Amud. So life went on as usual until just a few minutes ago when stun grenades were fired outside our house. I could hear the sporadic explosions all the way down to the Austrian Hospice and Damascus Gate area. Also inside the Al Aqsa compound. But now everything is silent again. I guess it's too cold for riots. Meantime I saw in East Jerusalem a draconian car-by-car stop and search roadblock. The traffic was held up and tensions were rising.

And it is cold. 8 - 12 degrees each night with rain and strong winds. I was wrapped in a t-shirt under a pullover over a thick hoodie with scarf and woolen beanie ... and that was just 7pm. I've been working 18 hours a day for the past 5 days. Sleeping only 3 and a half hours. Am totally exhausted. And to make things worse, municipality workers are repaving our road ... from 9pm to 3am. Jackhammers, pneumatic drills and bulldozers directly under my window. It's a nightmare for everyone here trying to get some decent sleep.

Mini-friar on the road

On a funny note, while I was on my way out to go to work yesterday, a cute little "friar" was coming up the road. Couldn't resist taking a pic. His mum and granma were bringing him to see the doctor round the corner. Here little children at their baptism (usually 2 - 3 yrs old) wear franciscan habits ... as a token of their consecration to St. Anthony of Padua and asking for his protection.

Meantime my asthma and feet are not getting better. Probably the cold. I must wear my orthopedic shoes which relieves the pain almost immediately. Which reminds me ... I missed my appointment with my podiatrist by a week now. Oooopppss.

Synagogue murders

Clear blue skies after 2 days of rain

We woke up to the news of utter horror and even till now everyone is reeling from the shock - 2 arab muslims attacked a synagogue during morning service and killed 4 jews including the rabbi while injuring scores of others. It is unbelievable that such attacks could take place in a holy place. But it had a precedent: 2 decades ago a jew Baruch Goldstein entered the mosque in Hebron (The Tomb of the Patriarchs) and killed 29 muslims and wounded a hundred others. That sparked massive riots and several years of violence. This time the synagogue murder will definitely see revenge attacks by jews, the collective punishment of arabs by Israel and the rise of distrust and hatred between the 2 communities. These "lone wolf" attacks has been the mark of the violence this year ... unorganised, uncoordinated and not ordered by any group or organisation, just random acts of violence by individuals. And this makes it more dangerous and difficult to contain.

Ironically the weather was brilliant with lots of sun, cool crisp air and soft winds. Hundreds of tourists are returning after the lull due to the Gaza War. However if this present violence continues, we'll expect  many cancellations and Christmas will be very quiet. 

Sisters collect your donations

And talking about Christmas, the Sisters of Mother Teresa came over to collect donations as they prepare gift packs to poor families for Christmas. This usually include daily necessities such as rice, sugar, salt, oil and perhaps medicines and clothes. Today sisters from the 3 communities of Bethlehem, Jerusalem and Nablus received clothes and medicines donated by Singaporean catholics via Faith Tours, and a sum of US$1730 for each community from donations by Hong Kong and Singaporean pilgrims. Thanks to everyone's generosity that will help our poor christians get by this cold winter and badly affected by the Gaza War and the present repercussions of the violence. Anyway it's still not too late for more donations if you wish to share some charity with the christians of the Holyland.

More rain

Debris at the former
US consulate

Shocking news last night, hours after the arab youth stabbed a jewish man outside Damascus Gate. News flooded in that an arab bus driver was found hanged inside his bus. Arabs immediately called it a lynching while Israeli police denied any foul play. No matter what, each side believes in its own version. Riots in the southern villages of Jerusalem where the man came from. The Old City though remained mainly untouched.

The rains continued last night, stopped in the  morning for a couple of hours then came back more heavily. It was good and we need it. However the rest of the country was not prepared and so flooding has caused damage in several areas. The former American Consulate had tree branches snapped off and this morning a crew had to clear the road from its debris and cut back the ancient cypresses.

The new pathway in front
of the Ecce Homo convent

And the rains have not stopped the Municipality crew from re-paving parts of the Via Dolorosa. The old stones worn smooth by time because dreadfully slippery in the rain. The Municipality is paving one side of the road with rough limestone slabs for tourists to walk safely. It starts at the Austrian Hospice and last night they reached the entrance of Ecce Homo convent. Tonight they'll do the section between the Ecce Homo and the Condemnation Chapel. The rain is not making the work any easier but the nightly work that lasts 4 hours is pretty fast by Middle-East standards. Now the road looks weird ... one half with new stone slabs, the other with ancient stones. But then everything else in the Holyland is a hodge-podge of new and old, ancient and modern. Nothing here surprises me anymore.

Winter is here ... it's official

Rain ... at the plaza in front
of Mandarin Restaurant

Last night it rained non-stop with thunder and lightening as well. I actually wasn't aware of it as I slept quite well. It was an arab friend who called me at 3am to tell me about the storm and to go out and have a look. It was freezing cold ... 8 degrees I think ... and from my window I could see the lightening and rain. It stopped by dawn but after 2 hours the rains and lightening returned. Central Israel was flooded, cars were washed off roads and 2 persons were struck by lightening in Palestine. The newspapers have declared officially that winter is upon us.

I had to say Mass at the Armenian basilica (4th Station of the Cross) while the storm raged. Not bad as I'm able to sing some parts of it in armenian. After that I had to rush off to the City center to do an errand. Came home not very wet as I had the long plastic raincoat on. Thanks to whoever bought it for me from Hong Kong. It was very unique and everyone was looking at it and some asked where they could buy it. I should some over and do a brisk trade!!!

Just an hour ago, my Israeli security friends told me there was a stabbing near Damascus Gate in Prophets' Street. The assailant was seen running towards Damascus gate, perhaps into the Old City. I think there's going to be a massive manhunt and our Quarter will be closed off again. And yesterday there was a massive brawl in northern Israel between Druze and Muslims. 41 people were injured when a hand grenade was thrown. Turned out to be a squabble between Druze and muslim students from a school that spilled from Facebook to the village.

Hot cinnamon buns straight
from the oven

Anyway despite the cold and rain, I got to meet some of my old friends from the security at the Tunnel exit. We chatted out in the streets under the rain and cold wind, drank Sprite and laughed alot. It's the only way to keep sane in this tense situation when the manhunt was going on around us. And it was nice that Khalil our cook made cinnamon buns this afternoon. Something hot in this cold cold weather.

Another weekend

Antipasto at home on
my feastday

Friday passed very peacefully here in Jerusalem except for a 5 min demonstration that quickly ended when police fired 3 stun grenades. It took place at Damascus Gate. Everyone was surprised how peaceful the whole day was. The lesson learnt was: don't restrict entry to the mosque ... when everyone could enter the mosque to pray, there was no demonstration and rioting.

But everywhere else in Israel seems to be on fire. Large scale demonstrations in Cana, and also in Palestinian towns like Umm el Fahm and Hebron. Qalandya which is one of the usual hotbeds saw clashes with police at the checkpoint. http://www.jpost.com/Arab-Israeli-Conflict/Palestinian-activists-breech-separation-barrier-protesting-Israel-381826 

I didn't go to work yesterday because I was waiting for an interview with the rector of the university. We all have to have this interview once in 3 yrs. It's the usual giving a report kind of stuff.

My students and their surprise party

Several days ago was the feast of St. Leo the Great, the pope who stopped the huns from attacking Europe ... among many other achievements which made him great. Back home the cooks prepared a very nice lunch to celebrate, with special antipasto followed by lasagna, chicken and an apple crumble. It was great but of course I didn't eat any of it ... except for a small piece of crumble. My IBS will just ruin everything .... And anyway I had to rush off from lunch to school. Am teaching english to the seminarians. They stopped class after the first half hour and surprised me with a small celebration. It was very nice of them. It made me very happy.

Quiet Friday

The antiquities and heritage bazaar
is less crowded than usual.

Jerusalem remains calm these past 2 days. Police presence are markedly lower and people just continue with their daily lives. Today Friday, Israel decided to lift all age restriction for entry into the City and the Al Aqsa mosque. This is due to the pressure by America and Jordan in yesterday's talks in Amman.

But in the villages outside, squirmishes still occur. The village north-west of Jerusalem called Issawiya saw the entire village out protesting because Israel closed off all roads into and out of the village. It was part of the collective punishment promised by the mayor of Jerusalem. Tourism and local businesses have suffered as a result of the road closures, security checks and violence. No one is at all happy. Everyone loses.

The armenian arch
facing Mt. Zion

Blockades and checkpoints also affect my work as I have to cross between East and West Jerusalem. Though usually they allow foreigners free access, I've been stopped twice from entering the east by soldiers. The worst case scenario is I have to find a place to sleep if I can't go home by night.

Meantime my feet are no longer swollen but it still hurts. It's not just the neuroma on the right foot but now the left foot also is painful when I walk. Don't know why. I need to return to the podiatrist next week. Anyway despite all the bad news, something good must be at the end of this tunnel. That's how Jerusalem is ... a place of despair and hope.

IBS

Fruit and veggie market
outside Herod's Gate

The past 2 days have seen atrocious violence around the country - both in Israel as well as Palestine; but strangely there was no violence in Jerusalem. The whole "silent war" had a very strange development. It all started and centered only in Jerusalem. The rest of the arab community in Israel and Palestine were not interested. Then from last week the violence began to spread to Israeli towns and cities, as well as Palestinian. Jerusalem itself became silent ... with only sporadic minor incidents in the surrounding villages. The fact that the street markets continued to function only prove the fact that people want peace ... as the fruit and veggies market in and outside Herod's Gate testifies. Herod's Gate is usually the hotbed of scuffles and riots. But not for the past 2 days.

Today jews burned a mosque. You can be sure there'll a revenge attack tomorrow ... or even tonight. But it's all outside Jerusalem. The newspapers are all saying the PM has lost control of the situation.

Winter time is sufgoniot
time!

Yesterday I was back in hospital for a checkup. It's been a horrid 2 days as I've been sleeping only 4 hours each day. It was work on Monday and yesterday was lining up in hospital and getting tested. Then there was work at night as well with visiting groups. So the 2 days began at 3am and ended 11pm. I just wish I can drop everything and retire. Enough is enough. Proposed diagnosis of my diarrhea problem is IBS (Irregular Bowel Syndrome) probably caused by the trauma of the operation 4 years ago. It's severe. No cure except a change in lifestyle and food. No stress. Different pace of life. All that recommendation is of course fairy-tale, dreamland ... in real life I can't do any of those things. Just look back at the past 2 days' timetable!!!

While still in hospital I had a call from school telling me to come back immediately because no one was working in the library. I was 70 kms away ... and had to grab a taxi costing US$150 to rush back to school and work in the library. See the stress? Anyway I managed to grab some sufgoniot from a great pastry shop. It was great to eat this treat once a year ... though docs forbid me from eating it because of my diabetes and IBS. Who cares? If I don't die from diabetes, the stress will kill me anyway.