Karta Silicon

Tensions are rising everywhere in the country as the Flotilla aimed at breaking the gaza blockade is due to enter Israeli waters. We all remember what happened last year and the violence that followed. Groups have been canceling their trips in record numbers and everyone is holding off their visit to the Holyland until after September to see if a war does break out then. An unpleasant wait ... for us living here.

My lunch today was a refreshing plate of giant figs and mini peaches. The figs are the size of your palm and the peaches the size of your thumb. Weird but tasty.

A walk through Damascus Gate or Salahaddin Street will inevitably engage you in a barrage of vendors yelling "Karta Silicon" costing 60, 80 or 100 shekels. That puzzled me as "karta" means "card" and "silicon" is obvious. Not until I stopped to ask one of them what he was selling. It's "Cellcom card" (cell phone cards). How Cellcom became Silicon is a mystery but knowing the tendency of arabic to use english words with an arabic twist, I guess it should not come as a surprise.

Weekend

An extraordinary weekend ... full of goodbyes as the school closed for summer.

Spent the whole of Sunday with Stefano. It was a touching experience because we never really knew each other. I've met him once when I visited La Salle earlier this year but we never spoke. But the last 8 weeks were terrific. A few days back he surprised me by asking me to organize his last day in the Holyland. He wanted to spend it with me: so we spent the morning by the beach, skipped lunch, walked the length of the city which was his last look at the city, had dinner at my fave Thai restaurant, then we said goodbye. But before that, I wanted him to see his last sunset along the beach. Ste is very attached to the land and his year-long experience with other students. It was difficult for him to let go and move on. Photo - Ste watching his last sunset in the Holyland along Gordan Beach.

Late last night Claudiu and Ilie called to say goodbye. They were at the airport. It was sad but nevertheless I was happy for them as they move on. Ilie will be married to Emmanuela in September and Cludiu ... well we never know what he wants.

Today just had lunch with Vax - a monster pizza. Vax got me a lovely shirt from Golf which absolutely fit in size and colour. Now that's proof he really knows me despite only 8 weeks. It's really too bad it took all 3 years to pass before we actually spoke to one another. But too late for regrets. We had a great time the past 8 weeks. He's the last to leave the country. Good luck Vax to your coming marriage and your studies in Durham.

So the lonely summer days begin. The doctoral students are all still in school doing their research. We have no holidays. But with the rest of the guys gone, life will not be the same.

Time for goodbyes

The last exam was taken yesterday and today school closes with vespers and a barbeque in our courtyard.  It shouldn't be too crowded as some students have already left for their vacation. Another 20 students will leave for Greece with some of our professors at midnight. But for doctoral students, there is no holiday. They must remain through summer to use the library and write their research paper.

Last night some students had their last drink at their favourite drinking hole - yes, it opens even on the Sabbath. It gets so crowded by 11pm people are standing in line to get a table - all youths of course. Well since I never drink alcohol, and more so after the operation and diarrhea, but not to spoil the mood, I took a shandy. Started a trend. Almost everyone else decided to have one as well - most don't know what a shandy is. They liked it. I was amazed how alive the city became as it got towards midnight: it's another face of conservative Jerusalem - young rebellious and defiant of the religious restrictions imposed during the day. Everyone of us said their goodbyes; some are leaving tomorrow for Greece, others are leaving for their homelands the next day. Most will not return to Israel as they have finished their studies. It wasn't easy saying goodbye but this annual ritual between colleagues, friends and classmates has numbed the emotions of us who stay behind to wait for a new class of students in October.

I'll miss the guys, especially Sicilian Agostino and the Romanians Ilie, Claudiu and Vasile. They have been my solid support throughout my illness, operation and recovery. Though I've seen Ilie and Vasile the past 3 years in school, we never really got to know each other till 2 months ago when I was operated. We became very close and we shared a fantastic 8 weeks getting to know each other. Rather than regret having made friends too late, Vasile said we should treasure the last 8 weeks and enjoy the few hours that we have left  before they leave. Both Ilie and Vasile will soon be married before their ordination - they're Romanian orthodox and their church allows married clergy.

So tonight a new page turns for all of us. For the graduates, it'll be an academic career in some institute. For the professors, it's another course to prepare. For the doctoral students, it's another year to reach their goal. May God bless us all. And for my dearest friends Ago, Vasile, Ilie and gang ... may your futures be bright and full of promise. Goodbye until we meet again some day.

Sunshine

Sunrise over my beloved city - where promises are made, laughter ring, coffee sipped, small talk exchanged, friendships renewed, jobs done, tears shed, vows broken, spit spat, lies spoken, money extorted. City of life and death, joy and sorrow, love and hate, past and future ... a city of people masking their fear and pain through makeup, bravado, attitude ... and deep inside is a bleeding heart begging for compassion. My city - I love it.

Those were the days

The nation spun into action yesterday when a national war drill was launched. Sirens sounded throughout the country twice - at 11am and 7pm. People rushed to their bunkers, ambulances and military mobilised, everything done to test the nation when a war breaks out. Coastal cities were tested for a military attack from the sea, inland cities prepared for air missile attacks, yet others prepared for land attacks. While impressive, it left a bitter-after taste for many ... especially locals. "It doesn't make you feel good listening to the sirens" I heard a local vendor say to some tourists "It's not a normal country". Everyone knows it's a drill in preparation for September's unilateral declaration of a Palestinian state. Already people are talking about leaving the country during that month.

The weather has warmed up alot. Terribly humid. It makes people more edgy and tense, adding to the war drill ... even in my beautiful adopted city. Paradise lost. On a happier side, discovered that Dani actually reads the bible - even at the dinner table!!! Now I've seen everything!

Tomorrow is the last day of exams. Students will leave for their summer holidays, doctoral candidates must continue their research throughout the summer - no holidays for us. Tomorrow night the students will go out for their final beer at their usual drinking hole. It'll be the last beer in Jerusalem for most of them as many have ended their studies and will not return to Jerusalem anymore. Time to move on. Those were the days, my friend, we thought they'd never end ....

Recuperating

Still recuperating from the activities of the past few days. The diarrhea is not getting any better.  Our community went to the cinema on Monday evening - "X men: the first class". I thought I'd fall asleep but it was interesting enough to keep me awake for the 90 mins. A huge cinema for 500 people but there were less than 20 people there.

But going back to Sunday, and our walk along the Boulevard. Vax and I decided to buy some Toto cards to see if we can win the big prize - actually Vax needs some good luck to get his doctoral studies paid. We bought 45 shekels for 5 cards and we won 30 shekels. Better than losing everything, I guess.

Vax scratching the winning numbers ... 

Along the Boulevard, the Flame of the Forest trees threw up a tremendous show. Absolutely stunning blossoms. Families walk below its shade, admiring the beauty of these trees.



The pond had lovely waterlilies in blossom as well, and the Koi were frisky between the roots.


I will miss this open-spirited city once I leave. Everyone here smiles and chats, offers help and suggestions. It's so different from the suspicious, tense, hate-filled Jerusalem. All the Rumenians are leaving, as well as Stefano, this weekend so I'll be alone. And I'll miss Eliko and his gang at Arcaffe; the fantastic team at Thai House, Ido my gym bro and the other gym rats (Matthias who's returning to Italy), the memories of Max Brenner cafe, the Boulevard, the crowds at HaCarmel market, the crazy people along the streets and beaches. This summer, I discovered I had a life.

Prices

Saturday was a relaxed and fun day. The Rumanian students and an Italian came over to visit me and spent the night over. They have all completed their studies and will return to their own countries next week, so it was sort of a goodbye visit. We spent time at the beach, they brought some barbecued meat and bread for lunch - and 2 of the Rumanians got badly sunburnt. Had to go to the pharmacy to buy medicine that evening! Later in the day we had a nice walk along the tree-lined boulevard that runs through the heart of the city. Had a coffee break along the way. Sad to say goodbye to these guys - they really look out for me when I'm sick. That's the price to pay for having friends - saying goodbye and trying to move on. Two of them will be married before their ordination - they're Orthodox so priests there can get married.

Evening we had a lovely dinner at a Thai restaurent. They serve Char Kway Teow - authentic stuff (without the cockles). And of course there's perfect Tom Yam. Photo: Thai chicken curry with long beans and rice. Prices are no more than what you get in any other restaurent. All in all, everyone was happy.

But going out for me is always a logistic nightmare because of my diarrhea and nausea. Trips have to arranged in such a way that every two hours I have access to a washroom. Believe me, while the Char Kway Teow was fantastic, I had to pay a price with awful stomach pains and diarrhea the whole night.

Meantime the price of Cottage Cheese in Israel has sky-rocketted. Inflation is big time running the economy - everything is getting more and more expensive. The people are not happy. We expect some unrest in the near future.